Had a proper strip down today... Plenty more Ti bolts, Evotech rad guards done, Chain/sprockets removed, frame protectors fitted along with some crankcase carbon. Whilst apart I want to lift the tank to remove those daft looking plastic rear head covers! They bolt in from behind the subframe hence needed access, I’ve removed the 2 rear bolts and cranked off the top 2 pivot bolts... So does it pivot slightly from the front or lift from the rear? It’s not looking obvious
Sorted now.... Rad guards done, Ti bolts installed.. Omg the wiring on this thing is hideous! I’ve never seen such a mess of twisted and stretched cabling, bad routing like I’ve never seen. Still all done now what I do like is how easy it is to change the air filter! Literally 5 min job bloody fantastic
Thanks.... Yeah best possible way to take some heat out the brake lines and pot. Pretty daft idea running all that stuff like super close to engine. Plus looks loads neater. The tin foil set setup that sits by the rear cylinders looks dreadful so I’ve replaced that too and made a carbon bracket to space it away and then wrapped pipework with some heatproof thick rubber insulation.
I don't really know what your on about bud but I've liked it all due to the fact its looks bloody sexay
Great idea bud! I totally agree ! As soon as I looked at it I thought “that’s gonna be a problem” like you say it’s a bad design! I’ll do what you have I think! Bike loos the dogs btw!
Mostly from Race Ti or TitanX or Racebolt uk. Shop around to get best deal. I always measure my own stuff and then purchase separately. Buy yourself a pitch gauge and a vernier. Take into account, Bolt OD overall diameter, overall length, Thread length, Shank length, Flange size, Head size and depth. On certain length sizes you can have some leeway +- a few mill. But always check depth of threads beforehand with your vernier. Or you could just pay a small fortune from Pro-bolt!! Did this for years hence doing my own thing now and working out so much cheaper! quality wise is equally as good as the top manufacturers. I was a CNC engineer for many years but before that I used do it the old fashioned way with a proper turning lathe and a massive grinder. 3 tenths of a thou tolerance So I’m a little fussy
Thanks Dave. Much appreciated... I'm a fussy sod too, and as much as I love the bike there are a few things that are "just not right" !?!? I've got good quality tools, and the bolt heads are literally like they're made out of cheese. 2 quick further questions: # is that a new sprocket carrier? # the plastic pieces behind the heads (what started your thread), is it as simple as raising the tank from the back? Many thanks Brett
More development today... But still waiting on 520 Chain and Renthal lightweight Sprocks... Gone ones down on the front... So Renthal lightweight quick change carrier, Superligh Polly bushes cushdrive with Ti pins, Superligh Flange cover, and finished off with Ducabike nut... Have to say the quality and matching is superb. It’s literally 1/4 of the weight of OE item set-up. Cant wait for the rest, EK 3D chain in black with Gold middle pins Rear Oz Gass wheel is 2/3 weeks away!
No worries Brett... Renthal lightweight sprocket carrier but with Ti nylon lock nuts.. The smaller OE bolts are made of cheddar so go easy. It’s mainly the weight factor for me but obviously the quality plays a big roll too. I’ve spent the whole morning completing every panel including all trims, mudguard, hugger and even the exhaust cowl now in Ti, All parts like chain guide and other non weight bearing or lateral loading parts I’ve completed in black alloy dome head with thread lock. Reason for lifting the tank was to remove both cylinder plastic trims... Or what I call beauty Panel’s. Really dislike the way bike manufacturers are covering up the best bits... I want to see the engine! Plus I’m a little old school. If something was leaking say a rear rocker cover then you would see it a lot sooner ...
Many thanks Dave It's certainly looking sharp now ! I'm keen to remove those plastic covers back of the heads. It's prettier without them. The bolts are just bloody annoying. Once you've had them off once they look like they've been butchered. I'll certainly be sourcing some TI replacements. Thanks for the heads-up.
Found out the front I had on 959 is the same fitment as the V4, So just ordered a new rear for the V4. Luckily the shop has a good account with suppliers so managed to wrangle a good trade deal. The Oz gass wheels are marginally lighter by literally 60 grams on the front and 80 on the rear. But they look so much nicer in my opinion. They really pop in the flesh. Also the Oz wheels are 3d forged, apparently adding more lateral strength. The OE wheels are forged using a different process. So I've been told by a good source.
