Just adjusting the throttle stop for 2.6º on the JPdiag software just means that the TPS is outputting 423Mv but the butterflies could be anywhere if you haven't set the TPS mechanically first. Follow Brad Black's procedure. You will need to set the TPS to 150mv with the butterfly fully closed. Then adjust the throttle stop for 423mv which is 2.6º.
but to set it to 150mv won't I need to hook up to the multimeter? sorry am a complete n00b at this. I mean the butterflies(I assume throttle plates) are completely closed, the fast idle completely unscrewed and the idle unscrewed as well.
Yes, you will need to connect a multimeter. Across the orange and black/violet wires, either at the TPS (my preference) or at the ECU (you will need to remove the back of the connector for access).
well clicking reset tps defo does something because jpdiag changes the angle every time i hit it. ill have a proper go on friday. i mean if the software did nothing, and i havent changed anything other disable the immo, the bike should really start. but it seems the software definitely does something. this bit from brads website "Aside from flashing the ecu I can’t think of any way you can undo an electronic “TPS RESET” procedure performed on a non linear TPS ecu. Thinking about it some more, I flashed in a file with the same software number that I had previously read from another ecu. I’m not sure if reading the file out of an ecu and then flashing it back in will work as desired here. I’ve not tried that. I recall flashing a 749 ecu with a file not originally from that ecu which would reset the TPS (linear) to 4 degrees or so with each flash. Now I always do a TPS reset after a flash for a linear TPS model." seems to indicate I need to reflash whatever was on the bike before nad it should be okay?
Disconnect everything, hooked up multimeter. Got the TPS to 150mv, then locked in place after a few throttle tests. Got the idle screw to 423mv. BUTTT the degrees is now like 5.9 according to JPDiag which isn't handy. I may flash stock firmware and see if that makes a diff.
an update, bike didn't run. it seemed to fire for a second or start and stall again. but my multimeter seems knackered, since its giving me the wrong voltage on a car battery so am guessing probably wrong voltage for the TPS as well. I'll be getting another one tomorrow and retesting.
video of it all https://photos.app.goo.gl/MUkMbpo1P2dsJhA59 am confused and out of ideas now. am tempted to take it to a ducati specialist and be done with it
Right i've bit the bullet, its going to ducati leeds. £70 an hour, this is gonna hurt. whats odd is it ran for a bit the other day maybe like 30 seconds, then died. I thought it sounded like one cylinder was working but felt both pipes and they were both warm
Might be a good idea to take it to Ducati John in Leeds, highly recommended by members that have used him.
ive spoken to him and hes basically busy for a couple of weeks. its understandable the dudes really good. also hes no longer called ducati john but this is his new alias i guess? https://www.facebook.com/CellierBVT/
thanks if this is fixed hopefully it serves are some kind of documentation to other st riders that come across the issue
The pipes are linked so both will get exhaust on one cylinder - hope you get it sorted quickly at those prices
Must have been running slow to sound like one cylinder. I don't suppose yo had time to check anything else
