Afternoon all I realise this has been covered many times before but would like to see a few photo's of your rears. Rear chain and sprocket setups that is I have a 2019 1260 S that's done less than 2k miles due to shoulder ops last year and the chain, as usual has surface rust and looks sh1t so I want to change it and the sprockets for standard gearing. There are lots to choose from aesthetically so would be great if you have a photo of your setup with a brief of what make and maybe a link that would be excellent Looking forward to some photos and linkies. Cheers Steve
At that low mileage the chain has another 12-16k miles left in it. A bit of surface rust is nothing and can be easily removed with a wire brush and a little oil. But if you want to spend your money then a DID ZVMX chain is probably the best and you can get it in gold, and maybe other colours. Again, at that mileage you won't need new sprockets either, but you can tart the rear up with a sprocket carrier and a Supersprox sprocket. https://chainsandsprockets.co.uk/co...ultisrada-S-(18)_2018?sort_by=price-ascending
I never use wire brushes on sealed ring chains, its really easy to damage those sealing rings. I use a soft cloth and either paraffin, or a chain cleaner depending what is to hand and rub it all with just enough force to clean but not scratch the seals - it does clean the side plates OK A very decent result can be had just using that method. If you then sparingly use a clear chain lube ( I use the Motorex offroad chain lube) then it looks all shiny and will not rust. As long as you have not overdone the lube - it will not chuck all over the back wheel either
I have standard rear but down to a 14 front. It gives much smoother riding in 30 and 40 mph speed limits with no downside that I can find. If you are replacing the rear sprocket and want something similar it's probably better to go for a 42 rear on the grounds that the wear is more evenly spread as opposed to the 14t front and will probably last longer. Edit thanks to DarR
Hi Steve, I changed the gearing during the first 600 miles service. This is a before and after photo of the rear sprocket (42T) purchased from CarpiMoto in Italy and DID ZVMX chain for my 1260 Multistrada. Here's a link to a 40T and a 42T (highly recommended) https://www.carpimoto.it/en-CA/Bike...eel-Rear-Sprocket-Ducati-Multistrada-1200.htm https://www.carpimoto.it/en-CA/4948...eel-Rear-Sprocket-Ducati-Multistrada-1200.htm In hindsight, I would have purchased a quick change carrier such as the one I purchased for my Monster. More expensive but also more versatile.
Thank you very much for the info guys. I've bought a heavy duty DID chain and https://chainsandsprockets.co.uk/co...sprocket-42-teeth?_pos=1&_sid=3f6eab80d&_ss=r as I wanted a steel sprocket. Also gone up to 42 teeth. Is there anything I should watch out for when changing them, any tips or tricks?
By far the best chain and sprocket kit I have had is from Afam. Over 20000 miles , only adjusted 3 times and good life left in it. DID shagged at 15000.
If you’ve gone up 2 teeth on the back I’d have thought you’ll need an extra couple of links in the chin and probably best to go down a tooth on the front but check this out properly. It’s what I did on my Panigale, made it much better at lower street legal speeds. I intend to do it to my Multistrada when it comes to chain renewal time.
The 1260 swing arm is longer than the 1200. Consequently, you'll need a 120 link chain cut down to size (aprox 116~117 as I can't remember). Going down a tooth on the front is an inexpensive strategy for a new bike as it does not require a new chain. I've done so on my Panigale when new. For my new Multistrada, I opted to replace both the rear and the chain immediately as going from a 15T to a 14T front was too much gearing for my taste. However, if you're going to replace aging sprockets and chain, it's best to up the rear and keep the front sprocket stock as it puts less strain on the chain. Gearing Change Table *BTW, those top speed numbers are purely mathematical. In fact, there's a good chance that the top speeds would be higher than the math would indicate since the stock Multistrada cannot reach redline in top gear. More gearing leverage could achieve a top speed closer to stock albeit at a higher RPM.
Dont forget you are throwing out your speedo readings when you play around with gearing. You may need a Speedo Healer (made by Healtech) or similar to correct things (unless the OE clocks can be recalibrated as I used to do with my Daytona using Tune ECU?). Your speedo will be well out otherwise
I think you are wrong Mr Owl. I think the speedo picks up a signal from the wheels, the same as for traction control. I have a 14t front sprocket and my GPS tells me my speedo is still 7% fast just as with the 15t sprocket. Edit. Aha, late to the party. Our replies crossed in the ether.
I don't think it's an error as such. Ducati, and most manufacturers I believe, set their speedos up that way purposefully to avoid any legal comebacks when someone is speeding and and as a defence say their speedo said they weren't. If you get my drift.
"Tracking Error" is a statistical term, not a Ducati error as they purposely built-in that upside bias as you mentioned. Notwithstanding, I would love to find a way to have the speedo read the same as my GPS.
Well Speedo Healers ARE available for the non ABS Multi's, so they can be corrected that way. They do not seem to be suitable for the ABS bikes though. Can the speedo accuracy be corrected using the JPDiag/Melco software? I could on my Triumphs Early stuff https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/sh/
To the best of my knowledge on ABS onwards models there is a speed sensor in the front wheel. Just had my bike serviced and a fault/error code showed up as such.
