a few of the modified reservior caps i have made up to pressurize the mastercylinder so that when you release the bleed nipple on the caliper / slave cylinder the brake fluid moves under pressure to where its meant to be
a bit of hose on the bleed nipple and an old 1L plastic bottle has never failed me in years on bikes and cars.
that will work eventually, but this will speed the process up considerably, especially if the slave cylinder is lower than teh master cylinder and you end up trying to work againist gravity
Agreed that's the way my dad always did it and that's the way my bike was done Some of the old ways are the best ways
I think Phil (Ghost) has quite a good method, too......as far as I am aware, he uses a syringe and fills from the bottom (No, not his bottom; the lower end of the hose or the bleed nipple) which would be pretty quick and forces the air out upwards. AL.
Perhaps he means Gravy? That Bisto stuff can get awful thick..... Anyway, I would have thought that the gravy problem would only occur if the slave was above the master cylinder, and not below it....but that would mean the bike (or the car) were upside down. AL.
I'm bleeding some brakes later this week - would you like to come around and give me a hand ??? having been there before, presurising the mastercylinder to push the fluid through saves a lot of time effort and grief the old fashioned method will work fine if your lines are already full of fluid, installing new lines full of air changes the dynamics of using a mastercylinder to try and pump the air out
Having installed new lines, I just open the bleed nipple and fill the master cylinder up and let gravy do the work......no effort. Or, as mentioned earlier, fill a syringe and fill via the bleed nipple........a big enough syringe means its done in one go. Pressurising the system using air is asking for aerated fluid...... I'm afraid that some people don't actually know how to use the time tested method properly.....you don't just stick one end of the tube in a jam jar with fluid in it, and then pump the pedal / lever........it doesn't work like that. AL.
won't work in this case, the caliper is above the master cylinder and yes I have a oil can full of brake fluid to pump thru from the bleed nipple - yes that does help (also good for removing paint when it all goes wrong) I take it you won't be coming around to give me a hand then?
When I rebuilt my 999 a full bleed was needed all were easy apart from the rear caliper which is now underslung.
No, I won't be coming round.........if the caliper is above the master cylinder, then I'm not getting the blame for building your bike wrong........where the F are the wheels fixed....on the handlebars? Now I can see why you are worried getting brake fluid on the paintwork........on most vehicles I have seen, the calipers are nowhere near paintwork, especially if there is a tube on the nipple. .......besides, if the caliper is above the master cylinder, then you should have no problems getting air out of the bleed nipple.....just open the nipple. AL.
Try bleeding from the master cylinder first, if your master cylinders do have bleed nipples just crack the banjo. Never fails and takes 2 mins
