Not sure if this has been covered before but, a few weeks back got up (on one of the rare dry days thinking "ill take the hyper" to work) rolled down the road from our house (loads of small children around us) went to start....no start....rolled a bit more, went to bump it....no bump..(slipper clutch) - got to the bottom of two hills (worrying now id have to push it back up) and it fired....when it didnt (it sounded like the sprag)...so, here we are.... Ive got the main sprag bearing thanks to one of the lads on here from a nearly/as new bike. The other 2 bits are apparently still in Italy...so this could send my bike off the road for a while...although i might have been lucky as i ordered them last tuesday... So this afternoon i thought...."ill pull it apart now, ready for when the bits turn up" then i can spend a bit of time doing this...." Went more or less to the way i wanted (never done this before) but from seeing a few vids on the net it didnt seem that bad-a-job to do...there were/are a couple of other factors which can be sorted out at the same time, so id be looking for a bit of advice...pics are on my phone so it might get a little disjointed....
So, to anyone that wants to do this...it's not a difficult job...well so far...but you'll need a few tools to do it... Dismantle the side of the engine....I removed.. 1 the lever 2 Clutch Slave 3 footpeg mount All simple stuff...
You'll need a generator cover puller, a rattle gun and a 30mm deep socket to get the flywheel bolt off...Oh and circlip pliers (if youre going to get the cover recoated)
So....questions....now its all apart ive got one bolt stuck in the sprag collar (the head went) but, not an issue as theres a local engineer i can go and see tomorrow who's an expert in removing bolts so for the sake of a fiver ill let him get it out.... Bastard.
So, to the questions and these are coating related....i had the engine covers each side cerakoted. Strangely the clutch side has been ok (ive no idea why) slightly different composition maybe...on my old supermoto i had the generator cover cerakoted on that and it went the same way....essentially it kinda comes through and looks a little chalky and patchy so it needs to be stripped and recoated. At the moment im thinking powder coating but would rather have cerakote and the reason i say that is i think from recollection some companies can paint magnesium (in cerakote or something else) - i dont mind paying as long as it lasts...
Little more has happened inthe last couple of days..... 1. Managed to remove the stuck bolt at work...yey me. 2. Dropped the side casing off at the powder coaters....had a good chat with him regarding the coating of magnesium....long and short of it, itll either work, or it wont....magnesium being porous, he'll know when it goes through the oven on its first pass...have to wait and see...next week sometime... 3. The bolt that was knackered was one of these.... So going to change for some hex head equivalent ones...measured the head thickness and its the same so all good there...heres what i ordered... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122438700558 4. dropped off the boss at Riders for them to press the old bearing out and put the new one in...hopefully tomorrow night so i can re-assemble on the weekend.
Measured them with a guage - if im brutally honest 4.06mm for the oem and 4.10 for the ones im buying....is that ok? I couldnt see them in any parts listing....unless anyone has some spares but the main reason was that the hex head will lend itself to torquing more than the torx...hence me mashing one and i lost 2 torx bits in the process that sheared off (dewalt bits so not cheap and cheerful)
Torque values for my 1098R were in the workshop manual. Can’t you get the bolts from a Ducati dealer?
Funny you should say that.... Found out those bolts are....hard to come by (if im going to get the right thing). Riders in Bristol and Bridgewater were out of stock - found 2 in Australia - bit far away....on the offchance phoned rich at Louigi and he had a full set....also said that when theyre removed - he never puts them back in, so i got his last set (that he was going to use on another bike) cheers Rich! These are the new revised parts...perfect..
Aside from the side casing not being done yet ive got everything i need now to rebuild the sprag clutch....not made a start on looking for the torque values yet - just about to go looking...
You can see that they are rated at 12.9. Higher than the usual 10.9 for a caphead. Unsure what the original low head torx caphead screws are.
Looking though my manual the closest i can find is 13nm which seems light to say the least....based on the fact that i had to literally put so much weight behind each bolt a bit of wee came out...unless these ones that were originally in there were way too tight...
Not sure what you mean by caphead - the original ones i bought were hex head...doesnt matter though as im not going to use those anyway...
Caphead is the type of head, Allen or torx is the type of tool needed. Low or shallow head is the caphead height. Hence why I called it a low head torx caphead screw. You can get male and female torx head screws
