You don't use air to pressurise (sp.) a pressure bleeding outfit, it incorporates a manual pump, they are very helpful for difficult systems that are prone to "air locking" and were standard equipment in most car w/shops back in my day. :smile:
Looked through all the pics of our sidecar outfits.....none of the calipers were above the master cylinders....always level or below. AL.
I can accept that bleeding equipment might be useful or necessary on some vehicles, but we aren't talking about a sixteen foot vehicle with a long multi-line dual braking system here.........we are talking about three feet of motorcycle brake hose! AL.
Just in case it helps.....here's how I would do it..........Its easier if someone can assist you. Assuming new hose is fitted and all tightened up etc etc.... Sling a dustbin bag over any paintwork nearby. Push a tight fitting piece of clear hose onto the nipple and hang the other end into an empty jam jar which is on the floor......(Empty, otherwise the brakes might jam on....ah ahahahha)........don't have the hose any longer than necessary which is so the end is below the caliper. (It's pointless having the end sitting in fluid to stop air getting in because there will be air in the tube anyway) Top up the master cylinder with new fluid (assuming it needs topping up.....some don't lose their fluid when hoses are changed). Open the bleed nipple, but not too far so that it is floppy in the thread...... ....then push the pedal / squeeze the lever once and hold it in that position while you shut the bleed nipple properly....then release the lever. Top up if necessary and repeat the above steps only this time squeeze the lever before/as the nipple is opened........and keep it held until the nipple is done up again. Repeat last stage until done and no air bubbles are present in the fluid in the tube......with a three foot hose, at a guess 5 times minimum to 10 times max. Never failed me on any vehicle unless there has been a fault with one of the components. AL.
Absolutely agree, for 'tis the way to do it, spoken like an old hand sir ! The only thing I would add it that sometimes I force the pistons all the way back into the calliper at the start just to dislodge any air hiding in there. Pump the lever to get good pressure, hold it then only crack the nipple a little bit which forces the fluid out with a little more urgency, closing before it's quite finished squirting and releasing the lever. ring spanner over the nipple, before attaching the pipe. on the MTS remove the rear calliper from it's mountings and rotate so that it can be bled with the bleed nipple at the top
.........and so it can be situated below the master cylinder..............or am I stating the bleeding obvious? AL.
If you have your clear tube end submersed in fluid, you can then pump the pedal/lever with the bleeder open (be careful and delibrate with your pumps, too fast and you will aerate the fluid), and it won't draw in any extra air, this enables the whole job to be done quicker and easier.:wink:
Sorry Dave....that's a fallacy..............the tube always has air in it anyway, because it has just been pushed out of the system....closing the nipple is what keeps the air out.... ...therefore there is no point having the end of the tube submerged in clean fluid; which incidentally will be aerated fluid because it has been 'contaminated' by what just came out of the system.....you don't want to suck back in what you just blew out. AL
I thought I explained it rather well.......but, hell, I'll try again........ If you are pushing air, fluid and cr*p out of the system, then the first stroke immediately contaminates the clean fluid that was put in the jar, doesn't it? So, if you do get a draw back, it will contain air, cr*p and contaminated fluid.......won't it? So shut the nipple between strokes (sounds nice) and nothing can get back in.......Logical, Captain. AL.
