I'd expect the filter to give you problems in the higher rev range but blocked filter or perished fuel lines in the tank can give strange symptoms
Does the cps not related to neutral in anyway? Also could the ducati tech of flashed this bikes ecu? Because it had custom fuelling and shit before edit: could also be this http://canberrariders.org.au/index....ues-solved-ducati-and-possibly-others.137839/
Well if it is that you should speak with @Exige as he carries CA Cycleworks stuff in the UK and there's a forum discount. However, before going down that path I'd be going over the fuel feed - although that does mean taking the pump/filter assembly out of the tank so you can check the wiring at the same time for continuity. @Exige will also be able to supply the viton ring you'll need to replace when you reseat the assembly, at least that's where I got one from in the past. edited to read viton not piton - bloody autocorrect!
so i stuck the old CPS back in. the neutral light seems better but the SURGING(thats the word) is still occurring, still random. Next up is the fuel filter.
I had problems getting my 999 to run last winter. After changing the ecu, the cps, relays and all sorts, the problem turned out to be a broken wire (inside the insulation) to the fuel pump where it goes through epoxy ‘potting’ in the fuel pump assembly flange Cured by replacing the whole assembly.
So the old filter has this coming out the back of it https://photos.app.goo.gl/PPFcGvKQpgqAQduXA Also petrol started to seep out the cap because it was upside down, is that normal or indicate an air leak?
That looks mucky as anything, I'd put a new filter in. Re petrol seeping out I presume you mean the fuel filler cap, if so that's normal it's not petrol tight when held upside down, best to drain the fuel out before hand. In fact it's best to drain the fuel out full stop before working on it. Just in case
new filters in, still feels odd. the throttle feels jerky when i come off it as well. am having a mate test ride it tonight jic ive forgotten what its like being on it. for this bike, do the injectors shut off dead when closing the throttle? cause thats what it feels like. it feels like my mt07 which has it. also is there defo no chance the ducati techs wouldn't of attempted to flash a change of ecu software on the sucker? i should just dump it and check but am being a tad lazy
Deal with one issue at a time. Has replacing the fuel filter stopped the 'random split second of power disappearing' that was happening?
Nah but I thi Nah but I think I've figured it out. The clutch has been adjusted. I like to rest my hand on the clutch, if I leave my hand there even the slightly touch disengages it. If I leave my hand on the handle bar the split second issue is gone. A mate also rode it and he didn't have any issues. Just been out for a good hour blast
The clutch lever should always have a couple of rmm free play before the mechanism engages or you will kill the release bearing
Go back to the relay under the fairing, they are crap and should be linked out then it doesn't matter what is at the side stand
right now it cranks whenever it wants. sometimes itll crank and sometimes it won't. before taking it to the dealership this never used to be a problem, it used to always crank without fail. i just turn it on and off, maybe 3-4 times and itll go from cranking back to complete deadness. I even removed the extra wiring that used to handle the kickstand only having effect if the bike wasnt in neutral. anyone any ideas?
Fixeddddd. The connector that tells the starter solenoid to get its ass in gear is fucked. I mean I've soldered what I can and I've done a shit job. Anyone know where I can get a replacement? https://imgur.com/a/9axsyIK That's my terrible handy work. I also nuked the fan switch, anyone know what temps it's supposed it come on at? Tempted to just buy this sucker a loom that's not been molested
There is no fan switch. The fan is turned on by the relay under the seat next to the fuel pump relay. The relay gets switched on by the ECU when the temperature reaches about 104º/105ºC. There are 2 temperature sensors one on the coolant manifold of each cylinder head. The one on the horizontal heads provides a signal for the dash display. That on the vertical cylinder supplies the ECU which will vary the fuel mixture according to the signal it receives and will also switch the fan and on off at the appropriate temperatures.
