you dont even know what time of the toasted sandwich it is... lay back, your old man nappies will be changed in a bit... you are old, you are warm (if a lil wet) and we WILL look after your bikes... trust me dad....
This is how I see it. The difference in mass will lower the swingarm's inertia, making it easier to accelerate for the same force (this will make it more responsive to change - i.e. road bumps). The shock's spring rate is not relevant here, as the sprung mass has not changed - a tweak to the damping (especially the high-speed compression damping if available) could be required to adjust to the 'quicker' response. In the real world I doubt you'd really need to change anything
Looks beautiful, great job and write up. I'm surprised you didn't need to change brake hose though, I fitted an SF swingarm to my 1198 and had to replace the hose with the longer SF one .
Well, the swingarm is only 16mm longer than standard, and the brake line and speed sensor had enough play on them to reach. I believe the Streetfighter arm is a lot longer than this. Probably why I only had to order a 100 link chain from the 98 link chain currently fitted. I see chains listed for the SF at 102 & 104 links.
That would explain it cheers, think mine has a 102 chain fitted, so yes must be a bit longer than the BST one .
OK. A couple of hours in the garage today finishing the job. The lockdown has meant ordering stuff online and my post is a few days behind. I've been waiting for all of the following items to arrive. Chain (DID ZVM-X 525) - 100 link Chain Tool Mechanical grease. (I don't want another slipper clutch 'Grease Gate' ) Circlip pliers 1st job of the day was to fend off the funny looks from the postman when I was getting packages delivered from an eBay seller named 'Lube Finder' The hardest job by far on this install was the large circlip on the rear hub (Removing and refitting). It was a pig to remove as I didn't have the largest selection of circlip pliers and knew it was going to be difficult to refit. It was an absolute pain as the large circlip pliers I bought still couldn't open the circlip up enough to get it over the hub cleanly and once you open to a certain extent, the circlip just wants to twist and buckle. To get round this I filed a small emboss in the end of the circlip to allow the pliers to sit in it as I opened it enough to tap the circlip on. If anybody has a tool to make this easy or another way, I'd love to know about it. The Ducati service manual makes no mention of a tool for this, just 'refit circlip' Grease rear hub. Fit rear sprocket carrier and torque to 230nm . Feed the new chain through. It looks like I've measured up correctly at 100 links. Measuring the width of the links on the new chain, I need to fit the joining link and compress to 20.45mm. Pleanty of supplied lube on the new chain link and fit. Initial measurements looks like I need to compress the link on by 3.0mm. Start compressing with the chain tool in small incriments and measuring until I get to 20.4mm. Within 0.05mm and I'm happy with that. Switch the tooling over to flare the chain link pins out. Remeasure afterwards and I'm still at 20.4mm. Adjust the chain and give it a quick wipe. Rear wheel. Another 230nm. Job Jobbed.
Nice job. I like the improvisation on the circlip. Can you post links to the chain tool and pliers please. I’m in the market for both.
No problemo. The improv on the circlip annoyed me as I should have been able to do the job without it, but just couldn't manage. Anyway, it worked in the end. Chain Tool Circlip pliers
A question re the c/f swinger. Are there the normal shoe guides fitted in it to stop the chain hitting any bare c/f? Ta.
This type of heavy duty circlip tool maybe. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sykes-Pi...terchangeable-Circlip-Tool-tips-/272513698473
The pins are for pushing through the links when splitting the chain. As long as you have a range of sizes in your kit you should be OK as it's best practice to grind off the heads of the pins when splitting the chain anyway so your chain splitting tool and pins aren't under too much pressure. TBH, this is a part of the tool I probably won't use as I'll just grind the top of the pins off and separate the link with a screwdriver as I did this time. I'll really just be using the tool to compress the chain link end plate on and flare the link pins.
Now off the ramp, as I can't use it I moved stuff about to get onto the next job. LC on the ramp for a new gear change shaft oil seal. At least I'm getting jobs done in this lockdown.
