Tried the bike today and starter button just made a small click with no cranking. On and off a few times and it did start but something isn’t right. BATT on dash shows flashing 11.9, optimate shows green battery condition and 12.7V on multimeter with bike on, 13.0V with bike off. I’m guessing poor connections with HT leads or something? Does it not crank below 12V? Anything else to try?
Battery is shot. Green light on optimate doesn’t show full health, just that there are no cells down.
Ah ok thanks. Is there a way to check with multimeter before I order one? Just a bit confused that bike says 11.9V and multimeter 12.7V.
IIRC, the reason for that is the bike is measuring voltage under a bigger load than when you use a multimeter. Have you tried measuring the voltage at the same time as hitting the starter button ? IME, 11.9v is not good enough to turn the motor over. Andy
Not really. You can measure voltage, but you really need a load tester to get a true picture of a batteries health.
Ok new battery then! It’s only 2 years old and I’ve used an optimate so seems a bit crap - Motobat. Any recommendations for one that lasts?
I’m intrigued. I have a 1098 and I’ve just replaced my battery with the yuasa YT12 which has a depth or width of 68mm and is a snug fit with retainer to hold in place. The YTX14 has a width of 87mm so there’s no way it can accommodate nearly 20mm extra. Length and height no problem. In the past I’ve used the YT14 which has 70mm depth but is 20mm higher. Easily accommodated by removing the bottom spacer needed for the lower height YT12. I’ve seen it mentioned before but without modifying the enclosure how does it fit ?
Unless Yuasa have their specs wrong with the 87mm depth there’s no way this battery would fit my 1098. Not a chance. Amongst other things I’m sure the cables wouldn’t reach and the fairing wouldn’t fit. I was tempted with the increased CCA but would love to know if someone has fitted the YTX14 to a standard 1098 for future reference.
Seen many threads where bikers have used the YTX14 in a 1098 with no reference to fitment problems. Would be good to know what the depth actually is from someone that has one fitted. The battery carrier depth just accommodates my 68mm YT12 on my 2007 1098s Tricolore and anything greater would stop the fairing fitting. Maybe I’ve got it wrong but really can’t see it fitting my bike.
The Yuasa specs are correct at 87mm. The battery holder was designed for this size of battery battery but they downsized it and added spacers on the early bikes. The YTX14 is standard fitment on some later bikes like the 1098R Bayliss and 1198 SP as mentioned already... I have YTX14's fitted to all my 1098R's in standard battery boxes with no issue even with the additional Exact-Start Cable kit fitted...
thanks for that. Looking at the parts numbers they changed the part for the holder after 2007. The last digit after 2007 change from 1 to 2. As you say it has spacers so I can see it would fit if I replaced my battery compartment. Simply removing the spacers to move back wouldn’t work as the cover support wouldn’t fit with the additional overhang. Thanks for clearing this up and now makes sense why 1098 people get them to fit but as is I would have problems without additional changes.
Just fitted a YTX14H-BS to my 2007 Tricolore which I've had from new, it arrived at the dealer late March which makes it one of the first to arrive in the UK. The old battery YTX14-B'S that I removed is the original from new and identical in size to the new one at 87mm wide.
Just goes to show difference. Like yourself owned from new taken delivery June 2007 and mine was fitted with a YT12-bs which required the spacer underneath to increase the overall height. Personally never had a problem starting bike but considered the upgrade to YTX14 couple of years ago but couldn’t understand why it wouldn’t fit until the response from exige.
Update: I’ve fitted new battery (but went for YT12B-BS as I thought easier than removing spacers-hope I’m not going to regret getting the smaller battery...) but it’s still not right, flashing 12.0V and going up to 12.3V when headlight goes off. Haven’t ridden it because I don’t want to get stranded. Am I right that flashing on 12.0 means something is wrong? Button sometimes turns over, sometimes just clicks as before. Any help massively appreciated as not easy to get it fixed at the moment.