Go for it Rex. If there's no canister for the tubes to go to then just make sure they are long enough to pass through the frame and out underneath, avoiding anything hot on the way, like exhausts.
One tube is the tank breather so it's important that it's not kinked or squashed. The other is the drain hose from the filler area. If it's squashed or kinked water won't drain from the filler and will end up in the tank when the filler is opened. Not a good thing. So make sure both hoses are routed correctly.
I'm just a middle aged chief engineer from ships thats also spannered for while at small main dealer and who is trying to save you money/hospital food. I really hope that you have an uneventful learning process, but talk of a 30A charging dongle already has me doubting that will be possible. The only advice I can give is to err on the side of caution when in doubt. People who know what they are doing make mistakes, people who don't are merely playing the odds.
The 30a is because I can then get a JUMP at "start" levels. from whomever offers it without needing a tow or to remove the side panel to reach the tall bolt and another to reach a solid ground. Nobody would CHARGE at 30, let alone the 60a my other charger can do... (start setting) But when your system is in good working order and you are 90 minutes from home... no cell signal and your buddy leaves the key on after he tried your bike and we all went in for lunch... A high power jump to start... and then let it charge as you drive home will work for me. Besides, the battery WILL NEVER pull 30a... but you know that right? Does AAA know that? do their devices know the difference between a car/truck/Bike? Cables like that are generally used so that what YOU plug in does not pull too much current and fry the wires... I am just setting it up in reverse. But that gauge of wire and protection can come in handy if someone does something stupid. I am learning a lot. I am sure you are too Thanks though. Rex
The missing part no.12 in your very first post is the extended shape it is, specifically to clip the +ve jump lead to. The negative lead clips to an unpainted chassis area or fastening. There is no need to run cables for jumping around the bike.
Plus I'm not sure you'll get two crocodile clips from a set of jump leads on a charging port. I can see where you're coming from Rex and the logic, post a picture of the finished 'dongle' please as it may be useful
Yes, Thank you, I had posted that. But I still have to remove the plastic panel over the Battery and the side panel to reach the recommended ground. This will make it easier. I will also charge with my new trickle charger through it. The higher grade wires and fuse will never come into play with that though. This just looks like it would be preferable on the side of the road. Most regular chargers like mine will do something around 2a, and 10a for regular charging. If it were to spike and burn through a 10a fuse would suck. So while I was looking for a way to get the correct power to my phone (Must be USB-C PD) I came across this piece that was supposed to be used on a car/truck to give you a powerful cigarette lighter type receptacle outside of the vehicle on a longer lead for say running an air pump or something more. I grabbed it because I knew I would use most of it later on. It is a standard blade fuse. 30a came installed, I can make it whatever I like. I referenced that number because the gauge of wire is rated there... So I will recreate it into what I need. If I would have stayed with the Lithium battery I really would need it because the Shorei terminal will not work with that tall bolt. No way you are getting a jump. I am changing back to something that should work with it... But it will not be here at first either, or the battery box. So while I have it all apart now is the time. I will be re routing my phone power under the tank too instead of the ugly route along the outside. Next week? 2 weeks from now when both the bolt and battery tray arrive I will install both. But in the mean time I will try to wedge some closed cell foam around the battery to keep it still. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5VV8SL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 According to my research the USA wants only 20a through 12 gauge wire... but most say the wire can handle it, but it is outside the safety code. Since this is not in my home, And since this was already pretty much assembled the way I need it and inexpensive since I could not buy just a few feet of 10awg I am running with it. Maybe I will change the fuse to 20a Rex
Look above and imagine the normal SAE port on the end with a little bit coiled under the seat. I already have SAE to Alligator clips twice from other ventures... While they are not as heavy a gauge, what I am doing is overkill because I like to do things only once. And... why not. It all adds up to time tinkering in the garage. My little air pump (in case of a flat) will also use this especially since there are so many warnings about using the Diag port. I am not sure off the top of my head what the pump requires but I never thought I would ever be getting power from the diag port. Especially with a 3a fuse. The phone has been though. BUT let me tell you if it meant getting home or not I would just cut whatever ends off and strip the wire to try and get that jump. As I am too old, and the bike too big to run alongside and jump on to get a push start like it's and old 250. Besides, can you do that with a slipper clutch? I asked once and some said it depended on settings... Settings that I am not Messing with right now. Rex
Plus, it seems that most of what you buy. Including the more HD piece above the fuse is near the battery. not very close, but certainly closer than the other end... so where will that sit? in the battery box leaving a little wire coiled there? in the middle somewhere in/along the frame? I will make sure there is enough room to have the fuse holder under the seat where... A) it is very easy to check if there were ever an issue (I worked in service much more than sales) B) I can check if that is the fuse I or someone else needs as an extra, extra if something goes wrong... Rex Battery, charger, wrench, T60, and spring puller all arrived. The battery is resting before charging. Rex
OK Evidently I f-d Up... There are many videos... but I missed what he says at 36 plus seconds... Luckily I am OK... Rex
Got slowed down today but The new battery is charged (not installed Yet) The old battery is charged and is now powering/charging my phone and Bluetooth speaker when I am out there. 2 shelves installed in the garage Ducati Flag hung up on the wall The new phone power is installed permanently. The new charger cable is created. I am not sure how everyone routes the cables out of the battery box. The top goes on pretty tight. I will be using a dremel in the corner of the top to just create enough room for the wires to exit. When it is all buttoned up I will seal it with silicone. All Fuses (That I know about) checked. The 2 hoses are on and routed under the metal piece clamps installed... no kinks. Easy once I remembered that I needed a box to hold the tank up while I worked. Tank fully installed. Rex
Rex, a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing which is why the charger and Li battery raised a few concerned eyebrows on this thread for starters. Here is the problem, the 30A master fuse is related to the max load of the switchable electrical devices on the bike not the starter motor. It is usually worked out by the sum of the connected switched loads like headlights, brake lights, ignition system, indicators etc all running at the same time with some spare capacity and is also sized based on the design capacity of the bike generating system which will be something like 500w of 12v DC or a shade over 40A (A sum of 240w connected headlight, indicators ignition and brake lights load at 12v will give you 20A). The starter motor is switched direct and not normally run through a fuse as it draws significantly more than 20A or 30A when it tries to spin the engine. If you look at the battery spec it will specify a CCA rating usually in the 150-250A range. That is so high as the starter motor will typically pull over 2kW or over 170A when you try to start the engine. That is the reason you have big FO red cables that go direct from the battery via a big MF switch (Starter solenoid) direct to the + terminal on the starter motor. When you say the battery will not draw 30A when jump starting a bike you are correct as it is not the battery that draws the bulk of the current in that condition, it is the starter motor drawing 170A or more. Put that starter motor load through a 20 or 30A fuse and I would expect it will last a microsecond before turning to smoke. If you insist on a dongle you will need a 4 or 6AWG cable (16mm minimum size for the rest of us) but make sure it does not end up shorting to the frame of the bike otherwise you will probably cause it all to go bang and set fire to the bike. BTW it is good practice to routinely charge an AGM battery at no more than 1/10th of its Ah capacity which will be only 1-1.5A otherwise the life of the battery will be compromised.
OK Thank you. I had not thought about what the starter would pull if I left the charger attached while I tried to start it. I was just thinking of getting decent power to the battery to recharge it quickly. My dongle should still work well in that regard. I do have the battery tray and original tall Positive bolt on order. Both will get installed when they arrive. I will also remember not to try and "Jump" it through the dongle if it is ever that far gone out on a ride. It does state on my, and many other Li batteries that normal chargers are OK to use with some caveats. Picture above. But I did not know that was what I had before it was out. I did recharge the li with my traditional charger at 2a. I also charged the new AGM at the same setting with the same device as it was it's initial charge. I had selected one that came dry. Yes, the trickle charger is a 1.5 amp that will match perfectly. Link above. And No Grounding! Nothing sucks more than when something/one F's up and you see or smell wires over heating and you realize now you have to replace those... Both the phone and charging dongles will be well secured and protected with a wrap that goes around the wires. You can see some of the type I use in the pics above also. Thanks again for the starter heads up! Rex
All done No time, rain in 90...GF in 60 @Denzil Only 1.5 mistakes... talk later The protected wire along the top is the phone... The lower one along the frame is the charging dongle... Rex
@Denzil the Ducati I did mess up. I lost a 30a fuse while replacing it after checking it. (lower one in the battery box area) and I lost the little black metal slide on nut that holds one side of the battery box down. It evidently went to the same place as the fuse. Neither could be found... The fuse was replaced. I will have to source that little nut. Other than that... Nothing works until it does... It was a bitch getting the bolt started for the positive terminal with all 3 leads lined up. They could put 3 more threads on that bolt to help a guy out... I was growling so loud dogs were afraid to walk past the garage. and then Voila! As far as I can tell everything checks out. It starts, phone charges, and the battery tender charger charges... Rex
Hi Rex, glad you got it all together. For the battery terminal bolt issue it is a good idea to pack the underside of the nut when the battery is out so the nut is loosely held in the upper part of the terminal, you can try using the tack from the Vaseline or whatever dielectric grease you are using on the terminals but that is not a very reliable solution. Use something like a soft flexible tube inserted into the battery terminal post below the nut to hold the nut against the upper part of the terminal. BTW Exige includes such a tube in his starter cable upgrade kits for exactly the problem you had. See the picture below, by the two nuts are two short clear plastic tubes.
