Had another look at the throttle linkage today and still not happy with the vertical cylinder. Think I will probably remove the ball and replace it with the one supplied with the new socket. Had not done this before as the original is a kind of rivetted fit so will need careful removal. Will sleep on this. Have fitted the steering damper today and fitted new seal on airbox so been flat out - not. Ian, you can see the new oil cooler above. Brand new!!!
Taken the ball end of the throttle connection on vertical cyl and replaced with the new one supplied with the new linkage. Both throttles now open together so all is now good in that department. I want to run the engine and be able to adjust idle and balance easily, so planning to take the fuel pipe out of the airbox and run it with the tank lifted up. This won't happen for a while as all the bodywork and tank are at Rage Design. Proper paintwork artists. Just as an aside to this, I was doing some tuning work on a pair of 748 race bikes years ago in Turkey and the power increase on the dyno by just raising the tank up was astonishing and the reason why all the race bikes were fitted with the largest airbox possible.
Where is the single bolt? I used a single Dzus at the front through the v piece and one each side - one bracket beside the gear link and one hanging off the ear brake master cylinder.
I machined an insert to fit the hole where the tange on the belly pan would have fitted. There is a mounting hole on the belly pan to bolt through to the machined insert. Otherwise its three Zeus fasteners either side to hold the side panels to the belly pan.
RickyX. You can see where I have put the insert in in the attached photos. All it means is that the belly pan can stay on the bike with either/both side panels removed. Can't wait for paintwork to be finished - really want to get on it now!
I think I attached my ally bracket to the screw hole just in front of that. The bracket then had a Dzus receptacle fitted on the end so that the belly pan could be attached there.
I am looking for a race shift lever for this project. Does anyone have one for sale or know of a reasonable supplier? It does not need quick shift sensor fitted. All paintwork is back on Monday so looking forward to seeing this girl dressed up.
Is the lever with the strain gauge built in? I don't plan to put a quick shift on. Could you PM the prices of both please?
I've booked an MoT on Monday so am trying to make it roadworthy. Rear cylinder does not want to idle and I think the injector is still a bit blocked. Currently got it in the wife's jewelery ultrasonic cleaner! ECU signal is good to both injector and coils
Well thats about it. I have just taken it down a private road near me and its seems about 90%. Its possible the vertical injector is still got some low revs issues. Either that or it needs a visit to a dyno and an ecu reflash. I think I will put a couple of hundred miles on it and see if it improves. The clock says that its only done 4750 miles and from looking at the bores, that seems about right. I am sure that there will be some small things to fix over the first couple of rides and I will get a proper front mudguard for it. I have built it as a tool to be used rather than something that has just come out of the showroom. Its certainly going to get some exercise this summer. I had a 916SP and a 748SP back when they were a new model and this certainly seems to have much more grunt but I suppose it should do. MoT tomorrow then.......! That will probably be the end of this unless I have something interesting to add re idle/injector issue. Thanks all for your interest and the guys who have helped, a big thank you.
Perhaps I should mention that this bike will be for sale sometime in the next 12 months. If you might be interested, please PM me and I will contact you when the time comes. Thanks.
Hi Ben. Fantastic job, well done! I’ve just found a battery fixing bracket in my box of bits. If you don’t have one, I’ll post it down to you. Also, might be worth trying to pull the injector wiring a bit more through into the airbox and then cable tie the wires onto the petrol pipes. Just keeps the wires from flapping about. Other then that, top job!
Hi Ian The mount point for the battery fixing bracket is damaged so without a complete battery carrier, I decided to make my own system! Thanks for the offer and if I find a complete mounting, I may get back to you. I have checked the wiring out pretty carefully but I will take your advice regarding cable ties. I am also going to swop the injectors round to see if the problem moves.
Superb job and looks lovely with newly painted "clothes" on. Anything else you might have done differently, or spent more time on?
The rough running at lower revs is causing me some thought. Its clear that there is some play in both throttle shaft bushes. This is causing one butterfly to start opening before the other however I adjust them. So I either get a machine shop to make some new bushing, buy a new set -if available and about £1K or look for another second had pair. Can anyone here say which models of 996/998 used the same bodies as the 998R? Any suggestions gratefully received.
Bridgland, I think my post above is the only thing! I should have looked at them more closely earlier in the build so I could make a plan. However, I didn't!
