Can’t see why the welder said he’d have problems TIG welding the new hooks on the other side. I did this when I fitted the full termi system with slash cuts instead of the oval cans it was made for. The tube is plenty thick enough to apply a decent tack weld. Using the thickness of the wire, it’s just fused on anyway... a decent fabrication shop shouldn’t charge more then a tenner for tacking them both on as long as you mark the positions first.
Also, if you try to spot weld the tank in places, you’ll have even less chance of being able to get a nice satin finish again on the tank, the alloy in the filler wire will stand out a mile as the colour will be different. Sorry but don’t know what your best option would be. Ian
@PaulPhillips that's good to know as I'll be repainting the alternator cover so will not doubt use some of that stuff. @bettes I have no idea why the guy wasn't sure if the weld would take as they're both stainless steel and just tack welded on. To be fair I went to 2 x dent/body shop places as didn't have a chance to go to my usual fab place which previously done very good work on my RS125 frame so I think they will be good for it. I had anticipated the change of colour from the filler wire as this same procedure was done on my RS125 frame with good results. I don't think I'll be able to get the tank back to factory condition but I'll try my best. Either way I'm going to have to compromise I.e have some minor discolouration but with a nice smooth shape/finish or have the indentations with revised paint scheme so I'm going to go with option 1 and get it filled and smoothed. As long as the shape is there I don't mind a bit of discolouration, it's a little bit of character I suppose lol. The right side is worse than the left. The left side might actually sand out but was hard to capture due to how minor it is.
Better day today. Dropped the tank off at powdertec who said they would completely strip the tank. They said they dip the articles in a penetrative chemical and put them in the oven at 200°. With this in mind, they would usually put steel parts in over night with no worries but with this sort of tank they would need to watch it during this process to make sure it doesn't deform or even worse, melt. We'll see what results they yield. My plan to remove the melted microfibre worked. Heated the bike up, used a damp towel to wipe off the residue. After shutting the bike off, I used petrol to clean the rest of what was able to be removed. Finished off with some metal polish. Overall, the pipe looks well, some swirling caused but in daylight it still looks chrome. I weighed the 2 sets of Termignoni exhausts. The bazookas weighed in at a total 3.015kg while the slash cuts weighed in at 2.702kg. This makes the slash cuts lighter by 313g. I'm going to weigh the servo motor to see how much that saves as well. The only thing I don't know is how much the stock silencers weigh which would be interesting to compare. I seen on another forum that the whole oval system saves approximately 4.5kg but not sure how accurate this is. Mocked the silencers, subframe and seat up. Fitment is not 100% and will take a fair bit of effort and patience to get it right. Anyway, as usual get your headphones on and enjoy. You might need to change the quality from auto to 480p. No idea why my videos aren't uploading in HD.
Took the right exhaust that had heat staining apart today which didn't actually take too long. First off, if you're like me and haven't had any experience with riveting then watch this video. This is what I done to strip the exhaust down: - First I drilled the heads off all the rivets on the stainless strips at each end cap. Like the video suggests, I didn't drill all the way through as I didn't want to drill the carbon. I used a 4.5mm drill bit on a slow drill speed making sure to spray WD40 when it got hot. The rivets were stainless steel and took about 10-15 seconds to remove each. - I then removed the stainless strips which allowed a better view of the remaining rivets. - Next I used a punch and tapped out the body of the rivets which came out with little effort. - I started with the front end cap and removed it by hand fairly easily because most of the sealant had gone. No need for any heat. The front cap is attached to the perforated tube which is wrapped with steel wool and then fibreglass packing over the steel wool, all held together with masking tape. You can see the front of the packing has completely blown away which also caused the sealant to blow too, burning the carbon as a result. Unfortunate but at least I've picked it up. - After this I took the other end cap off and that was that. One thing I noted on both end caps was at the most sharpest bend, it appears Termignoni have cut into the metal in order to shape it and then welded it back over and ground it down. I thought it was a butchering from a previous owner but the same thing to be on both sides was more than a coincidence I think. The front cap has a crack in this area and the rear cap isn't much better. With the exhaust apart I'm going to get the exhaust tabs and cracked corners welded and ground down. Once this is done I can get the can back together. I've only done one just now but will be doing the other one as well. With everything all cleaned now, the exhaust will be ready for reassembly after the welding.
Just a brief update to let everyone know I haven't thrown in the towel. Been busy with work and had to wait for parts/tools deliveries. Got plenty of more updates to come but I've decided to have a go and design the paintwork in the meantime. I pretty much like every livery for the 1098s so combined the Tricolore and R along with the basic design from Robarano's tank. The result kind of looks like a distant relative of the MV Augusta F4 Corse edition.
Yeah, got a fair bit more to update. I like to update things when they're completed but have a lot of things half finished. I'm off annual leave just now so should have a decent amount to update in the next couple of weeks. Had to buy some tools on the side to help progress things which has taken it's toll financially. The biggest issue is the majority of my work gets done outside and we've had a particularly cold/wet winter in Glasgow which isn't condusive to any build.
Hi just spent the last hour or so reading your post well impressed fantastic job you made me laugh regarding micro fibre cloth on polished pipe, because I done the exact same thing although I’ve left mine at the moment but will try your method to remove the stain, regarding the slash cut termis I also brought a secondhand set but realised after spending a couple of hours trying to align the pipes correctly at the back so they looked uniform realised whoever sold them to me had obviously repaired them as the bracket at the back holding them together,the previous owner had put one of the stainless brackets the wrong way around so of course the two pipes wouldn’t bolt together so drilled out the 2 rivets and spun the bracket around 180 degrees . When riveting stainless rivets you need hands of steel which I found out but completed it in the end. When I polished my termignoni exhaust I brought a cheap bench grinder of eBay and attached polishing mops made life so much easier
That's a bummer about the exhaust bracket. Annoying when folk don't do a good job. I have literally just bought a bench polisher because I had to take the manifolds off and after being handled they turned a rose gold colour. I tried to autosol them but it went tiger striped and annoyed me. I couldn't be bothered giving them a once over with the drill so bought the polisher which will make my life sooooo much easier when cleaning small parts and polishing. I conceded in relation to the riveting so I bought an air riveter but had to ammend the system I had with new couplings in addition to setting up the new riveter with new seals and hydraulic oil for the internal piston. It makes quick work of things so I won't have any problems when riveting the exhaust back together. Part of the reason the build has slowed is because I've reserved a new build house but despite this, I've spent a fair whack of money on tools and upgrades. The result is, I have no money left for the build lol but I believe I now have everything to finish the build.
I realised after splitting the exhaust, my alignment issue assumingly came from a previous owner who had drilled multiple holes (probably unknowingly) in the carbon sleeve and then re-assembled them out of position. I doubt this has came from the factory like that so think the exhausts have been repacked before. I took the exhaust body to a fab-shop who welded the corner that was cracked and filled the already present holes. I buffed the mess that was left from the welding and then did a mock assembly. I used a hole punch to mark the drilling points and re-drilled rivet holes where I thought would give the best fit. At the same time I also cut off the retaining spring hook from the exhaust body and welded it on the inside. This is because the springs for the slash cuts are on the outside, however, my 70mm system was made for the bazooka exhausts where the springs are in the inside. You wouldn't know I cut the springs from the outside after I polished it up. Due to the heat there was some spatter than bubbled through to the inside of the exhaust so had to buff that down as well. Not the shops best work but from what I can gather it's hard welding thin steel using MIG. I bought 2 x packs of acoustafil exhaust packing after reading this forum for under £30. The slash cuts are a tri-oval shape so I just used their oval calculator to see how much I needed and went with that, still had a fair amount left from the one pack I opened. I used masking tape to keep it together because this would just burn up instead if melting. The packing was real easy to cut with scissors but handle outside as the fibres go everywhere I messed up the permatex exhaust sealant on assembly because I had the wrong sized rivets so had to clean it off and wait. I bought the rivets and Termi stickers from BR Special Tuning who are an official Termignoni retailer. The rivets were expensive at about £1 a pop but I wanted to keep everything as OEM as possible. I bought a sealey air riveter and eventually got that set up so all I need to do now is re-seal and rivet. Once this is done I can finally post the stuff I've done since.
Fantastic job you’ve done I used akrapovic rivets I had left over from a previous job looked exactly the same as the rest of the termignoni rivets and what remember they were expensive to. My full 70mm termi system had the spring clips on the outside so I didn’t have to do what you had done, I thought all 70mm full termignoni systems had the spring clips welded on the outside of the y piece
Can't remember why I think this but I believe the hooks for the 1098 were on the inside as per the longer bazooka style exhausts but when the 1198 came out with the slash cuts the hooks were on the outside. If this is wrong hopefully someone can put me right. The 1098 and 1198 systems are both interchangeable between bikes apart from the engine manifolds which had different stud positions. I also prefer a cleaner look with the springs being hidden.
Nice work and excellent thread... Just wondering why you didn’t alter the spring hooks on the link pipes instead of the ones on the end cans... When I did mine (a good few years ago), I’m sure I did it that way. Same result but maybe less hassle? Anyway, keep up the good work! Ian
@bettes I didn't alter the Y-pipe hooks because I preferred to have the springs on the inside and hidden instead of the outside and visible. I think it looks cleaner and will be easier to clean/polish up the bits you see but on the flip side, will still be annoying having to take the springs off from the inside so it's one of these each to their own type things I guess. Thanks for staying tuned, helps keep the motivation alive.
Finally got round to finishing the exhausts. Think I'd been holding off cause I knew it was going to be a bit of a shit job. I used red permatex exhaust sealant which sets pretty fast. Turns from a smooth paste to a semi-solid in no time at all. I was pretty liberal in its application to ensure a good seal. It was tricky getting the brace and rivets in quick enough before setting. I bought a sealey pneumatic riveter specifically for this job as there were 13 x rivets to go in and I didn't fancy making a meal of it with a cheap handheld jobby. I wish I'd recorded it but it wasn't possible as I had my hands full at the time but the riveter made absolute mince meat of them. Appears to be tighter rivets and it genuinely took me about a minute to get around them all. When I eventually do the other exhaust I will video it then. Only thing about the riveter was you have to top up the pneumatic oil internally before use and the main o-ring was cracked and needed replaced. By relocating the rivet holes I managed to sort the fitment issues I'd been having so happy about that. In my infinite wisdom, I decided to leave the sealant on and then I'd clean it off once it set, easy. Wrong. To anyone reading this, for the love of God just clean it off after application. It can a messy job, but will save so much work in the long run. The sealant came off the carbon no issues but really stuck to the steel ends. I was left with 2 x options, either scrape it off or go to town with some 400 grit Emery cloth. I did both. I ended up marking the ends trying to scrape it so elected for the Emery cloth which worked well. I used a Stanley knife to to chip away the sealant up to the carbon and left enough that is visible. I have no issue with this or how it looks. Using Emery I managed to get a nice brushed finish and with a bit of T-Cut to the carbon, I was quite pleased how the exhaust turned out. Just had to even up the other one. I have genuine Termignoni stickers but going to put them in once they're properly installed.
@Borgo Panigale Just T-Cut and a microfibre for the carbon. I didn't even spend that long on it to be fair. 99% of the work went into the ends. Just the usual swirling motion with the T-Cut and then after a while just wipe off with clean bits of the cloth, after the second clean wipe it should look shiny. T-Cut isnt a polish as such, more of an abrasive polish but leaves a nice finish. Really doesn't take much effort or time. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/p...t-cut-rapid-scratch-remover-500ml-333823.html
