Slave cylinder on the way out. Known problem. Worth getting the Oberon as it’s lighter in effort and offers peace of mind unless you are still in warranty
Do you have to drain the engine oil to fit the Oberon slave cylinder to avoid it spewing out when you remove the existing slave?
No there are O rings on the clutch push rod, don’t remove it there is no need. If the ant rotation pin does not line up just twist it with some pliers.
Recently had this problem and fitted the Oberon. Useful video here: I did take the opportunity to give the whole area a good clean up and also cleaned the pushrod. only challenge was getting all the air out but overall a nice straight forward job. A nice lighter clutch operation!
I recently fitted one of these slave cylinders to my 2001 900SSIE and yes it did soften the clutch action but I was already only using 4 springs on the pressure plate anyway. On the move all was good but at rest and selecting neutral was not as easy as with the OEM slave cylinder. The clutch was obviously not fully disengaging as more force was needed to pull it out of first with the result that you went straight through neutral into second. The instructions advise that at least 30mm of pushrod should be protruding from the the crankcase face otherwise the small extension piece provided may be necessary. With only 27mm of pushrod the extension piece was tried but found to be unnecessary. I then phoned for advice and spoke with one of the founding directors who was most helpful. During our conversation he mentioned the distance that the piston in the slave cylinder moves for both the OEM and the Oberon units and whilst I am still waiting for this to be confirmed I recall 2.4mm and 1.8mm being mentioned for the respective units because this is one way to know that the system has been bled properly. This would also possibly explain why neutral selection was not as easy. As soon as I get confirmation on those measurements I will re-install the Oberon unit. Finally I found a slight variation on bleeding technique very effective. The normal procedure is bleed valve open, pull lever, close bleed valve, release lever. As soon as I had any ”feel” from the lever I swopped action 1 and 2. Thus by pressurising the system before opening the bleed valve you will find that the fluid comes out of the bleed valve with far greater velocity and effectiveness in carrying the unwanted air bubbles with it. This can be done with the clutch and the brakes. Finally, finally to make the bleeding process a lot easier these bleed nipples have non return valves built in. https://www.stahlbus.de/index.php?seo_c=lng/en/&seo=bleeding-system&language=en But not cheap!
