Hi all, sorry to ask, as I’m sure it’s a recurring theme. I’m going to fit a clear clutch cover to my 2o20 v4s in the next couple of weeks. There seems to a lot of conflicting information on the torque of the bolts holding the clutch cover to the engine casing, the 3 differing torque figures I have found are. 10 NM 3.5 NM (this came from Jared Campisi’s video on you tube) 3.5 NM plus 90 degrees (this came from a copy from what seems to be the workshop manual found on this site) the only other mention of the 3.5 NM plus 90 degrees is a video showing the install of the clutch cover on a v4s street fighter. are any of you able to shed any light on this for me, Thanks in advance, nige
Well I’ve never heard of a torque setting plus xx degrees. Doesn’t sound right at all. @nelly will know Just don’t over do it
Not sure on bolt sizes yet, but the 90 degree thing is a recognizable thing to do with bolts that are single use type that stretch. The bolts in question are the outside bolts that the clutch cover have to bolt on to the side of the engine, the same ones that would be used to bolt on a carbon cover etc. details of stretch bolts on Streetfighter 14.5 minutes in Nige
If they're M6 screws/bolts, 10-12Nm is a safe figure if you've got no definitive figure and don't forget to lubricate the threads. Must be a workshop manual available online to give you the factory torque settings for your bike. @Mary Hinge - 'setting' torque then degrees-of-rotation is one of the most accurate methods of putting a known force on the bolted system. It's the same as measuring bolt extension (very common method for big-end bolts) to get an accurate figure of bolt tension because you know the exact bolt stretch...
Thanks Keith, it was from a workshop manual i found here (forum) that I found a reference to the 3.5 NM and 90 Degrees. Considering it’s an easy set of bolts to get to and other than a small amount of oil that could leak out, I think I’ll go firstly for 3.5 and keep I good eye on it. Since these are the same bolts that would hold any carbon cover on, I think 10 Nm might crush the carbon, however, I am absolutely no expert. Nige
Fair enough, I don’t doubt what you’re saying. But why set a torque then follow up with say a quarter turn? Why not just set the initial torque value a tad higher? I’m quite up to speed with torque and tension settings. All be it in heavy industrial applications.
Torque plus angle was quite common in marine main engines a few years ago. (bottom ends, mains, cyl heads). These days all the new engines are done with hydraulic jacks for controlled stretch.
Well its tensioning now for sure. Then it was just big bolts and nuts with sockets and torque wrenches and then fancy little tools for the angle. Sometimes it was just a small plate to help you mark degress with a paint pen. Other times it was a fancy drop over device that rotated a pointer against a scale. Here's an old MaK tightening instruction.
The screws are one use alloy ones. Torx head. 3.5nm plus 10 degrees when new with a check torque of 9-11 nm iirc.
Applying a specific torque to a bolt is a rough & ready method of applying a specific tension to that bolt. Torqueing is tensioning. However, to put a much more accurate tension in a bolt you'd either measure its extension or measure rotation. Its extension (i.e. strain) is a direct link to its tension (i.e. stress) through the relationship between stress & strain (its elastic modulus). Its rotation is another direct link as that rotation directly translates into extension (by nature of the thread's pitch) and thus to tension. All that bolts do is apply a tension force to the system they're used in - this is what keeps stuff together, either by this force + friction opposing lateral force, or by having more tension than the system can apply thus keeping things together. If the OP's bolts are used to secure a CF housing(?), my guess is that the 3.5Nm is used to compress a gasket, or to just get to a good 'nipped-up' state, then the angle is used to achieve exact tension as I've described above.
I have 3 Teng Torque wrenches and all have a “degreeometer” (my word) to allow for a torque and an accurate nip. Never used that facility personally.