ride height tool wanted

I got mine off chas on the ducati sporting club forum. Aliernatively, just use the rear can mountoing bolt head as a fixed point and measure down to TDC of the rear wheel axle.

 

What measurement should it be employing that method? Assuming a 748/916 et al

 

I have no idea! I used the section 8(can tfind em online) settings years ago and have refined them so much my yellow shed is very non standard. Very high arse end and low front. I am experimenting a lot more this season and bringing the rear down. A good strt for stock type is 285mm centre to centre on the ride height adjuster rod (take it off to do this).

Belwo is something i nicked offline..........................

748/916/996/998

-Stage One-

This will improve the steering of the bike a lot simply because the bikes come with very little preload and therefore sits low in the back.

1. Set the sag at 35mm front and 30mm rear

A few notable points:
The stock Ohlins shock spring is set up for a 165lb rider with gear. Consult the Ohlins spring chart for the correct spring application for you. The stock Showa Biposto shock has a stiffer spring which works better for American sized riders. The fork springs will be anywhere from .95kg-1.05kg depending on what year your bike is. The nice thing about this is that the forks are set up for aggressive riding and work great for heavier riders, the down side is that they are a bit harsh for the lighter riders. Regardless you should be able to get the correct sag numbers out of the stock fork springs.

-Stage Two-

This is the same set up I ran on my 998R for the 2002 race season. It works very well considering it does not require the magnesium arm and a set of triples. Every person we have done this for has raved about how their bike steers. If you ride twisty roads, do track days or race you should be outside putting these numbers in your bike right now.
1. Push the forks up through the triple clamps until the 4th line is even with the top of the triple between the fork tubes (fig 1).

2. Raise the ride height in the rear, this is where it gets fun. Due to the fact that the single side swingarm is on an eccentric, the ride height and wheelbase change when you adjust the chain. The next problem is that you can not measure ride height by the ride height adjuster. Ducati has a tool that plugs into the frame and extends back over the axel to accurately measure ride height, but not many people own one…including us. We made our own, so of course our numbers do not translate. What's the solution you ask? Well we cheated. We are measuring to a fixed point on
the subframe, while not entirely accurate due to the fact the subframe flexes, swivels when loose, etc it is the best solution we could come up with aside from selling everyone a Ducati ride height tool. If you follow the steps below you will be 98% accurate when setting ride height.

• Set the eccentric at 6:00 (fig 2). You will never end up at exactly the 6:00 position with the chain adjusted, but you need to baseline it here so you are aware of where it ends up when the chain is adjusted. If, when the chain is adjusted it is outside the effective range you may run into an issue of not being able to get enough ride height or you may extend the tie rod too far and run the risk of it coming apart. When the chain is adjusted, the effective range is between 4:00-6:30, I think 5:30 is preferable. If your eccentric is outside of this range with the chain adjusted you will need to shorten/lengthen your chain. Set your chain tension before going on to the next step. Once you have set your chain tension and the eccentric is in the correct range you will be ready too set your ride height. No matter where it ends up in the range you will use the same ride height numbers. But keep in mind if you change sprockets, adjust your chain or look at it with bad intentions you will need to set you ride height again.

Fig. 2

• Set the bike up on jack stands. I have found putting them under the footpegs or footpeg brackets works best.
• Make sure the subframe bolts are tight (most are not). Make sure the subframe is “pushed” all the way down in it's possible arc (when the bolts are loose)
• With the tire unloaded measure from the top of the sprocket carrier nut to the center of the upper exhaust mounting bolt ( the figure 8 piece) (fig 3) the measurement should be 604mm. Remember this is not entirely
accurate because of the obvious variables, but without the tool this is as good as it gets.

Fig. 3
• Your ride height is most likely too low. If it is, loosen the ride height adjuster jam nuts (one is reverse thread) and lengthen the tie rod until you get 604mm. If you can not get the jam nuts loose or are afraid of stripping them (which happens more often that not) you can use a little heat, or take the tie rod out, loosen it on the bench then pack it full of Anti Sneeze.

-Stage Three-

 

There are a couple on eBay at the moment.

 

Arnt you using your bike as a track bike?............if so those measurements are way too soft and high amount of sag......

get a datum tool and do it properly.............or get Jeff to set it up for you!

 

thats why he is looking for a ride height tool (what you call a datum tool)

 

Yes i understand that........but posting him a setting that talks about 30mm rear sag..........is that static sag or sag including the rider? if its static sag then thats way too soft for a track....

and all that including measuring it from the exhaust mount ...have you ever undone the subframe mounting bolts and seen how much movement there is and therefor the variation in where people could of bolted it together means it isnt as accurate as made out.......and if you are going to do it and not bother about being accurate then whats the point!

it is a simple job that can be wrapped up in a lot of mystery and for a £40 ish tool that is accurate then i dont see any other way of doing it!

if your near me then ill lend you mine..........

 

DUCATI RIDE HEIGHT ADUSTER TOOL FOR A RACING SET UP | eBay

bit for postage..........get the price sorted for the 'ahem' import tax.........

 

Blimey talk about being raped........... Mine cost me 20 quid made from 304ss. I think I better get down to the local engineer who has a water jet cutter and get a few made. Seriously, I will get a price for getting a few made (ala AndyW's hub eccentric spanner)

 

good idea...............they allways sell.

whats really needed is the other part to go with it, ie a nylon bung ( top hat shaped) that would fit inside the centre of the rear hub with a centralised steel ruler on it to get the exact centre of the the hub and therefor the exact measurement up to the ride height tool.......

 

im near milton keynes.......

 

Resurrected thread as I'd like one if anyone has one or is making one. Please. Thank you. Goodnight.

 

I made one out of 4mm ply to this pattern and used two gash pro bolt frame bungs with a couple of 5mm bolts and nuts. Worked brilliantly and I'm sure I posted some pictures. Have a search. Andy

 

There you go. Andy