I thought I would take the rear wheel out this morning, pulled out my previously trusty Clarke CIR24 battery impact wrench .... and it wont touch it. Grrr The wrench had never failed me previous but is rated at 200 Nm, which may be a bit light for the rear hub I guess. I have shifted several gearbox sprocket nuts, but it isn't moving the axle nut I dont want to spend hundreds on impact wrenches just to use 'em occasionally so the big name stuff is out... but have ID'd a couple of possible runners - has anyone used any of these and do they pull the rear nuts OK ? Cordless unit https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product...&pf_rd_p=e632fea2-678f-4848-9a97-bcecda59cb4e Corded Unit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0039BQRUO/?coliid=I2KQ1PS2GT6NSF&colid=3RC3S734S2L3V&psc=1 This seems to be a clone of the one above ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08B61ZX8D/?coliid=ILN0SYLDTADSZ&colid=3RC3S734S2L3V&psc=1 Cordless is more convenient, but if it has no cojones, its no good - The feedback on all the above alternates between brilliant and shite ...which really doesn't help lol. On our specific applications - who has what ?
I've got a version of the Clarke. Cheap and no issues. I just have to remind myself which part of the trigger to use when removing the wheel!
When you eventually get the nut off, bung a thin grease film on the thread and the flat & conical contact surfaces when you reassemble. My Hyper wheel nut (170Nm) comes undone with just a mild lean on my 1m breaker bar.
Yep, no dramas. Give some thought to buying a specific rattle gun socket: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-LASE...516822&hash=item1a7e4e7b60:g:M9sAAOSwh~1dCLB5 I thought about a cordless one, but I'd only use it 2 or 3 times a year and I know I'd forget to charge the battery!
My Ryobi impact wrench does the job at 230Nm but it takes it a minute or so. However, just a breaker bar should break it loose. Make sure the threads are clean and greased when you re-install.
Get yourself a corded one unless you are going to use it often enough to justify the extra expense for a cordless one. I got one of these after failing with a 3 foot breaker bar with a 4 foot scaffold pipe. Why struggle with a that when it can be done at the press of a button. As has been said though just make sure you push the right button.....don't ask how I know
That looks very similar spec to the one I decided on I ordered this one in the end https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08B61Z...DSZ&colid=3RC3S734S2L3V&psc=1&tag=media000-21 I still have a cordless rattle gun rated at 200Nm and a couple of batteries that copes with most things. I will just use the corded unit to (hopefully) get the dewcatty wheel nut off
Yep all Clarke knock offs. Mine even calls it a Clarke in the instruction leaflet. Cracking piece of kit and definitely one of those "wished I'd got one years ago" tools.
Danish pani riding lad that has a fabrication sideline. You can get a hold of him on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/uhr.tec.design/ He does lots of nice handmade trinkets at fair prices.
HO, let us know what it performs like once you've received it, as I might follow you with the same purchase.
Mine arrived about an hour ago. I made sure it works but haven't rattled off the big nut yet, as the thought occurs - I will then need to tighten it back up again lol. Gonna see a buddy of mine with a bike shop and check if he has a big feck-off torque wrench I can borrow ALTHOUGH, its not going back up to 230Nm ... It'll be tight and it'll be locked in place, but just not hernia tight
I do my 1098R nut to near 230 and then rotate a bit more if required to line up the circlip hole. If you apply anti seize grease to the cone/nut then it has always come off again for me.
TBH I can't recall if greasing the cone is in the manual? If not then surely doing that is going to effect the torque value as you're reducing friction. Would result in over tightening.
