That’d be a seriously dangerous mistake. Be sure to tighten it up to 230Nm. I had one of the 55mm nuts come loose a year or so back and it wasn’t a nice experience. It managed to flick the retaining circlip out of its hole and I was lucky not to loose the nut and wheel. Also, Halfords torque wrench, £99 with the forum discount card. I might just save your life.
You might well be right. I'm not even sure if my torque wrench goes to 230nm but I'll check. One tip that's worth considering is using a small cable tie between to two ends of the circlip. I'm not saying it's perfect, but it gives me a little extra piece of mind.
Few words of caution, clean the treads and seats before refitting. Oil or grease on these surfaces and affect the amount of torque applied to the fastener. In general torque settings are quoted for “dry” threads. The reduction in friction can result in over tightening the fastener, Effectively overloading the fixing.
Ducati Torque settings are for greased threads - with the type of grease shown on the torque specifications
If you can afford it Dewalt are probably the best impact drivers, I have one 18v with 3 settings the highest 940Nm. Never been beaten so far.
Makita are a little bit better than Dewalt generally speaking but they are very good - Dewalt are Black & Decker btw
+1 on the Clarkey clone, 39.99 delivered when I purchased mine, I have also put red tape on the righty tighty part of the button to remind myself of direction!
Lockwire on mine - that's why I have no concerns about the circlip pinging off and why I am cool with less than 230Nm on the nut
I remember on a trip to Val de Vienne for the French Ducati Club 25th Anniversary in 2000, finding the chain side nut on my old 748 finger tight, despite having lockwire on the circlip. It had previously been tightened to the correct torque.
I struggle to see how a correctly fitted circlip can possibly allow the nut to work loose ? It goes through locking serrations in the nut and fixes through to the hub ?? It surely cannot have been fitted correctly ? Lockwire or no I just checked my larger torque wrench - it'll go up to 210 Nm - that's near enough for me
I believe that perhaps the bearings or a spacer had “settled” after it was torqued. It was a bit perplexing I must admit.
hence everyone's (most people's) decision to add a small tiewrap between eyelets of vernier clip but if R had lockwired - then.. twilight zone.
My wheel side is not locked in place at the mo, cos I am about to pull the wheel - (when I get half an hour spare that is) This is my sprocket side though. Lockwire AND a cable tie to stop the rascal making any escape bid
