Help Needed With Smart 1000le In Japan

I am not familiar with these but as far as i know the stand needs to be up. @XH558 has one i think.

 

He needs to get all the cheap fixes out of the way first. Charge battery. Check the earth fly lead on the ECU for breaks or corrosion. Check the earth connector on the battery for breaks and corrosion. Separate ECU from heat sink, check for corrosion and clean. Replace pump/injector/coil micro relay.
As the immo bypass procedure appears not to be working that would suggest the immo in the clocks is at fault. The expensive route is replace the clocks. The cheaper route would be to disable the immo in the ECU. You can do this with an Android tablet, TuneECU and the cables as supplied by Lonelec (they need to be FTDI chipped).https://www.lonelec.co.uk/Guzzidiag-Melcodiag-3pin-Interface-Cable

 

Nope on mine the stand stays down and it fires up,but it might have had a sidestand bypass switch fitted before my ownership.

 

It is annoying having to sit on them with stand up but to be honest i would rather have it as i'm sure you know we have all done it, pulling away with the sidestand down and that sudden oh fuck moment when you nearly get highsided out of the seat

 

I don't believe it's happened to me as yet,after seven years the 916 still has the flip stand which i don't mind but you have to remember that everytime when moving it about or your up a creek without the paddle,the only one is the 996 that has to be in the up position.

 

My 900ie and the 996 the stand needs to be up.

 

That's a very easy combination to remember.

 

immo light stays on, i think that should go off if the ecu, key and dash matched and happy

if it helps i have an s2r 1000 service manual that will be pretty much the same from an electronics spec

 

as chrisw says above, best check the obvious stuff (battery, clean earths, check fuses, swap the the fuel pump and ecu relays round, ecu connector corrosion) it could also be as simple as the antenna under the key surround had dropped down, or the connector for is has become corroded or the cable damaged

 

couldn't find free (they are about) but:-

https://www.pdfmotomanual.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=paul smart&description=true

 

if possible, could you add symptoms - i.e. when did it last run? Has any work been carried out since it ran ok? Has bike been washed recently or did it get severely wet while using? has it got an aftermarket alarm installed?

 

Try https://www.scribd.com/doc/110289014/paul-smart-service-manual

 

in your original post your pictured the solenoid btw
but i don't think thats the fault. its looking like its an immobiliser /ecu connection issue first off.

Has he got/tried any other keys (red or black)?
does the key def still have the chip in (has the head been damaged at all)
Is he certain that he is using the electrical immo code (not the mechanical) printed on the little card and its 100% the card for that bike?
If he is certain, and the below doest work, then Chris previous suggestion of disabling the immo in the ECU might be the most cost effective fix.

but it can hurt to try the easy stuff first

on my bike...(PS may differ)
The key surround has two bolts next the the key and it lifts off, the cable is connected to the main frame near the headstock. the antenae is number "3"


The main and injection relays are 2 identical small black cubes found under the tank next to the battery.
these just pull out and plug in. sometimes swapping them round identifies one is failing as the nature of your problem moves. if you have a multi meter these can be tested but as they are a common item to fail and a cheap fix replacing them both is a good for peace of mind
number 7 is the relays, (23 is the master fuse)



on the other side of the battery is the fusebox (1) and ecu itself above it


the ECU connecters have a latch that rotates and each plug comes away individually. fairly easily , you can inspect the pins on the ecu for any obvious rust or water borne furriness

there also should be a small black wire attached to an eyelet under one of the ECU bolts. this is the ECU earth and the bike may not run without it. if its there it doesnt hurt to take it off and give it . and the ecu heat sink body a clean with abrasives to ensure good contact.

best do the above with the battery disconnected!

 

good luck, let us know how you get on.

one thing i did just notice was that at the very end of the video (1.25), after the immo bypass process ends with a with a 4 second flash the EOBD light goes out which according to the manual means that the code card procedure was completed correctly (the immo light will stay on throughout )
he then presses the starter button and we hear a click and and the whole dash flashes like its trying to start then the EOBD light comes on again and i think we hear the fuel pump prime.

i just watched this vid and this guy turns the ignition off and on again at the end of the bypass process then is able to start the bike (although the manual does not mention this)

cant hurt to try

fwiw i think you might have a couple of faults going on here. 1 is likely related is the immo antenna /key chip not being recognised, the other looks like a more general starting issue which can have a range of causes.
it might be the case that the starter relay/soleniod is at fault after all , but it could also be a whole bunch of other stuff including just not enough current getting to the starter motor (weak battery, corroded terminals on the battery and earth bonding cables and solenoid)
it could also be the ECU is not powering up at all so pay particular attention to the 3a ECU fuse in the fusebox and the injection relay
the manual has instructions on how to check the solenoid (starter contactor in the book) with a multimeter

happy hunting

 

yes, ^ I was thinking similar, but didn't know the sequence well enough. Also thought the sound that accompanied the starter button press attempt reminded me of a flat battery.

 

your immo issue is that the dash cannot read the key (error code = 2 flashes of immo light after key on)
most likely;
a bad key/chip,
a bad or loose antennae,
corroded antennae or dash connector,
a broken cable in the loom

fyi in this french vid he also powers ignition off-on at the end of the immo bypass process before hitting the starter button so def give that a try.


i think Chris could be right about symptoms of a flat battery being your secondary starting issues
if you don't have a known good bike battery to use, make sure you use decent quality thick jump leads and they are well connected. also the car battery is fully charged and in good shape as you will need a alot of current.

I might be wrong, but to hear a click when the starter is pressed indicates that the solenoid is being fired (unless the click is coming from a relay in the dash itself, but i dont think so)
If i'm right, it also implies;
A: the immo has successfully been bypassed
B: the starter safety switches (neutral, kill switch , clutch switch, side stand) are all set correctly for the dash to allow the bike to start

If these assumptions are correct then the problem is likely to be in the high current starter circuits.
1 weak or insufficient power source
2 corroded or broken high current electrical connections between battery, solenoid, starter and earth
3 bad solenoid
4 bad starter motor

its unlikely, but you could also have a seized engine so its worth checking if the engine turns over manually.

to do this take the spark plugs out (there are 4 total on that engine) shift it to 6th gear and turn the rear wheel forwards (simplest way is put it on a rear paddock stand but its possible to turn the wheel while on side stand with some effort),
you should be able to turn the engine over fairly easily with the plugs out.