So I just got my first Ducati, a 2010 Hypermotard 796, and I was over the moon with the bike the first couple of days. I had to go away and finally came back to it to check things over properly. To my mistake for not checking it at the sale, I found the chain had way too much play and even side to side movement. It freaked me out so I decided to look at the rear sprocket and found it also had some side to side play.. I took a video of it so hopefully you guys can see what I’m referring to (sadly it’s not allowing me to post it). I’m looking at potential parts replacement and found item 9 to be a suspect on my list (diagrams uploaded). However it may be just loose nuts? Any tips or help is appreciated..
New chain sprockets and Cush drive rubbers required. I wouldn’t go stock (In my opinion) Look for Renthal sprocket and carrier (or JT carrier) DID chain. Quick release carriers are pretty handy. Tidy up the back end nicely Welcome to the forum also
You do have some nice shark teeth on that rear sprocket. I bought a set for another bike of these guys. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193330166121
just to be sure, those cushion things you’re referring to are item 9 in the chart correct? And when you said “chain sprocket” you mean chain+sprocket? Or? Thank you
Thank you a lot. Do you think the cushions is what’s responsible for for that play in the rear sprocket? Or can it be something else?
controversial time again, although sideplay/movement shouldn't exist between rubberised cush-drive outer shoulder and rear sprocket, they nearly always end up this way and it's become "the norm"/acceptable unless movement becomes "excessive". This seems to happen more on 2003 bikes onward (for me anyway). Defining "excessive" is the difficult part as you've hit on a really grey area. If you manage to master downloading pictures, you could include a close-up, side-on still of your rear sprocket as it doesn't look that worn to me.
Looks like an aftermarket carrier has been fitted. I fitted a JT carrier on my 796, and had a little end float on the hub. I fitted a 0.5mm ship behind the carrier which sorted the problem. See if you can either get a feeler gauge between the carrier and hub or measure float with a dial test indicator, this will let you know what thickness shim you will require. You can buy premise shims on flea bay, if you want the seller let me know.
I’m really debating just taking things apart and putting them together and torquing everything to spec and recheck.. sadly I don’t have any reference nor a manual to follow for details like that. Thoughts?
I’m such a newb that i can’t tell if it is aftermarket or stock. Lol I genuinely thought of that idea once I saw the play.. thought to just find shims and fill the gap. Just wasn’t sure if it would be sufficient and safe or not. if I don’t have a manual to follow, is there any other source to show someone new like myself how to adjust tension on the chain and maybe the torque specs for the bolts?
The outer ring of bolts hold the sprocket, if I remember correctly the torque for these is 18Nm. To remove the carrier you will need to remove the big nut on the hub, get the correct socket I think it is 42mm and a breaker bar, Or better still an impact gun, I think the tightening torque is 250Nm. To slacken / tension the chain release the clamp bolts at the rear of the swing arm, you will need the correct “C” spanner to fit the adjuster behind the sprocket on the inside of the swing arm. You should be able to google the play for the correct tension. I retighten the clamp bolts to 70Nm. Hope this helps
Are you talking about the two pinch bolts on the swinger locking up the hub after chain adjustment? If you are, the torque is 31Nm and tighten in a 1 2 1 sequence.... 70Nm is over double recommendation and risks stripping the ally thread.
good thing I just ordered a tool that combines both axle nuts sizes.. I believe it’s a 41/46mm. I’m still waiting on my stand pin to arrive so I can start working on things. In your opinion, should I just do the adjustment and shim the sprocket and clean everything or do I need to start replacing stuff? I come from 2 shaft driven motorcycle, so this chain job is new to me. I also don’t have experience to see a sprocket and decide its worn enough to replace or not.. I’d hate to start spending left and right if not needed at the moment. Il y frustration lays in the fact that I can’t ride the motorcycle and it’s such a tease since I just got it and now I don’t feel comfortable to ride without doing something about what I noticed.
An easy chain check is try to lift the chain off the rear sprocket in the 3 o'clock position. If the chain lifts exposing sprocket teeth then it's dead.... The higher it lifts, the more dead it is. Chain tension plays no part in the above test. Chains and sprockets live and die together.
If you are changing your sprockets go for 2 to 3 teeth bigger on the rear. It will make low speed riding more manageable, yo will need to fit a new chain any way. So buy one 2 pitches longer than stock. Don’t use spring clip joiners, riveting tools can be Purchased for about £30. I upped mine to 45t made a lot of difference.
