Well after 4 years of trying to fix the old girl for somthing else to the fall to bits I have decided enough is enough. So I will be stripping her down and go for a full birthday. As there is nearly 50,000 miles on the clock I think its about time. Engine will be first, so expect some strange question as I've only every stipped jap engines. Right first question is for Al, where did you get that stand from or is it a hand made job?? Second question is dose any know a good company that can drill out bolts as I've already found a number that ain't conning out in a hurry?
get your hands dirty no such thing as strange questions just strange answers lol pics dont forget pics we need pics as some of us cant read
Take your bike to Mr R as I've seen him post " no bolts every beaten me in all my time I've drilled em, filed em, welded a nut on em, done just about everything to a seized fastener in my time, feelin lucky punk,WELL".
The rear stand is a homebuilt job, as is the front one........ ...You need a strong bar, diameter 25mm for the front; rear one can be more. The rear stand could do with being 25mm lower. The front stand acts as a jack which I wind up about 20 turns each side to lift the front wheel clear; the rear one is just a stand which can be used as a jack, but is un-necessary to do so) (I have to put a thin pack on the floor under the paddock stand wheels..........once the rear stand is in place, I pull the paddock stand out of the way) If both stands are in place, the engine can be dropped onto a small scissor jack and dragged out.....might want to take the front wheel off though. AL
I use a engine crane to strip and rebuild bikes. I hang them with straps onto the frame, you can adjust the height and it's impossible to knock the bike over. Also you can move the frame up and down to remove and re-mount the engine, forks etc. Most cranes fold up to for storage.
My stands come apart into three pieces each and you can't knock the bike over when they are being used.... ...don't need to adjust height (once the front wheel is off the ground, if working on the front) Rear stand allows for removal of swingarm without removal of zorsts, footrests etc.....all you take off for that is the seat, the mudguard and the two seat fairings. Front stand can lift the front with tank and full fairing in place (but not the half fairing). Use both at the same time and the engine can be lowered onto any scissor type jack or little trolley (which could have some wooden wedges fixed to keep the engine upright) AL.
Oh, i seem all pathetic and simple now:frown:. I just use ratchet straps over the rafters. Nice work arquebus
Seeing as how I built the workshop including the roof structure and clambered about on the roof, boarding it and tiling it, with my perfectionism, I think the workshop will outlast the house if there was a tornado........ .......however, having done loads of lifting of engines out of cars etc, I'm not that happy about putting straps over the joists even though they are 3" x 1.75" and quite close together.......I much prefer steel beams which I used to have in my brickbuilt garages....but as it seems I can't even pick the bike up when it fell over the other day (no damage) I seriously have doubts about getting an RSJ in place, so I opted for the simple stands method. AL
Thanks for all the input. Like the old saying goes there are no stupid questions, just stupid people(i put myself firmly in that group) Thanks for the pics Al, I've got some 20mm threaded bar in the garage for a start and there is some old racking at work that i think will come in handy. Got to build a new work bench first as my other hobby(nitro RC car) is on the other work bench, on with the the 2x4!! As for the bolts, i can't get 5 of the 8 of the side valve cases undone and someone has already tried to drill one out. I'll see how i get on when its on the bench but might have to take to Scholar Enginering and get them to drill and coil them.
I reckon 20mm threaded will bend.....don't forget it is really 18mm max...........mine was made from a 1" weightlifting bar. If you can get all but the stuck bolts out, and drill the heads off the bad ones, you should be able to get the case off, leaving the stubs of bolt behind.....then you can go to work on them with heat, Molegrips and /or Stilsons. AL
thanks Al, might have to pop over to yours as it sounds like you've done it before. I was going to use the 20mm bar for the up down adjustment, I'll get some 40mm bar from work for the across bit.
25mm max......otherwise you can't get it place for the front one. Yes drop by if you want...fairly easy from where you are. AL
Well I might be going back on what I said as I have managed to drill out the 5 problem bolts. It wasn't the tread that was stuck it was the head of the Allen bolts. The studs undone with my fingers. The next thing I want to now do is cheek the tappets. I've got a Haynes so if I follow this is it simple or is there any tips some one can give. I know that I won't be able to adjust them as I don't have a bag of shim's, if they do need adjusting I'll take it to made in Italy. The reason for cheeking the tappets is when I put the carb balance gage on they said valve timming out. I've always wanted to leave it original so I'm going to head back down that road, as I said worts and all. Might still ask for a hand Al with the carbs to cheek the float height, just to make sure there good if that's ok?
Since when could carb balance gauges check valve timing?..........That's a new one to me... Yes, by all means ask about the carbs etc.......setting the float dimension isn't difficult to do........it's more a question of what the dimension should actually be. If you haven't messed with anything that could alter performance etc (pipes, air filters and so on) then leave the float dims exactly as they are now. AL
It is messed about, it was dynojeted stage two with in box k&n and top cut out. The cans have had the end baffle removed. This was how it was when I bought it with the exception of the air box mod which I did because it wouldn't run right when I got it. Will get the carbs off next week and the battle will begin. I put a photo of the gages on later so you can see what the say. I don't think the tappets have ever been done and I take they should have been at some stage before 50,000 miles?
Ah.....well.................Now look at this......... Mine's a 750 as well. The airbox just has the trumpets removed; a pattern air filter; and straight through cans and Dynojet Stage 2. I can partially understand a vacuum gauge might indicate a problem of some sort........I had one in a couple of Minis, but I don't think they were clever enough to measure valve clearances....... Was your running bad low down / idle; or at higher revs; or all the way through the rev range? AL
Can't get it to idle very well but it revs up fine. What I thought was a bigger problem Is that the front cylinder hardly gets warm and i can hear it pinking and the top cylinder gets red hot quickly. Both cylinder have good spark. any help would be great, could it be an air leak some where or poor carb setting. I will put a pic of the vacume gage on later so you can see what they say. Thanks
As a starting point for DJ Stage 2; pilot screws should be 3.5 turns out and the main needle position should be 3 down from the top. Main jet size should be 148. AL
When you get the carbs off and have the float bowls off, don't dismantle anything else, but turn the float bowls round and upside down, then bolt them on with two bolts each so they grip the base of the float assembly in place. If you then keep the carbs upside down and tip them slightly to the left (as you are looking at them; IE low on the left side) you can see both float needles in operation...........You will note that they are slightly sprung loaded and you need to measure the float height above the gasket face (square float, not the diamond one) without the floats compressing the spring loaded pin. Do it several times until you are happy with the dimension you get and make a note of them (NB don't forget that the carb on the left as you are doing it is really the right side carb.....I think).... The dimension as a starting point appears to be 14mm (although it is not definite) and also, I checked with a contact at Factory Pro........he says he uses the diamond float and measures the 14mm whereas on their website they say check the square float!! There is about 3 to 4mm between them! Mine measured 12mm and 9mm respectively measured on the square float...................they did not like 14mm and they are now down to say, 12.75mm (higher fuel level)........ So, if I were you, I would resign yourself to checking everything in the way of settings, but don't alter the floats.....You might get away with another half a turn out on the pilot screws if it is running a bit iffy. AL
