Downside of moving from Guzzi, - I'm back to chains. Never having had a single sided swing arm not sure about adjustment, seems like I need a C spanner. Saw a manual on ebay that comes on cds, anyone know if it's any good
it's pretty well explained here Chain adjustment multistrada 1200 - YouTube and here Motorcycle Info Pages - 'How to' & FAQs > MTS1200 Chain Adjustment I did mine at weekend, it was easier than it is made out to be. You will need a torque wrench 35NM and a 10mm hex socket. The spanner for the eccentric hub (C spanner) from the toolkit is perfectly adequate (you will see a C spanner with a long handle sold on here and used in the video above, but don't become convinced you need it, because you don't). Also I hope you have not lost (easily done) the little guide that shows how tight the chain should be, saves using a ruler.
A couple of issues with that video.... 1) Using the provided tension gauge/guide, as already mentioned above , is easier than trying to measure with a ruler 2) The video demonstrates very nicely that even with a C Spanner with longer handle (that's one of my MKI's by the way;-) adjustment is not necessarily easy.....and the danger of the C Spanner slipping off the eccentric hub teeth if you're not careful!....and potentially damaging the teeth of the hub!! (hence the concept of the "C Spanner Plus" was born......soon to be in production again in the uk;-) Depending on variables such as what conditions the bike has been used in, how long since the eccentric hub was last moved.....it can be a real bugger to shift as documented by many owners TIP: always start by turning the hub clockwise (loosening the chain)....you're only working against the hub then and not chain tension in addition and of course it's easier to press down on the spanner handle than lift upward;-) 3) Chain tension should be checked with the bike on the side stand i.e. wheels on the ground / suspension weighted..........and for 'S' MTS's suspension set to Urban 'Solo' mode (single rider/no luggage)
If another batch of your C spanners are being done I would like one please. Shouldn't bike be in 'urban' mode too; for those with an 'S' MTS?
Yes, thanks for that.....edited my post Spanners will be forthcoming and I'll announce when they're available ;-)
There is a spanner comes with the bikes toolkit and works fine & I found it very easy to use and did not slip , just put the extension pc. on the factory spanner on and the large allen key in the other end of the extension pc. . All these pcs. including the chain measurement tool should be in your toolkit . Just make sure you retroque your 2 pinchbolts to 26 ftlbs or 35 nm .:wink:
Thanks for the reminder re the torque setting for the pinch bolts.....important! And they should be tightened using the 1-2-1 method i.e. torque one then the other and then recheck the first. Yeah the toolkit spanner can be ok but many people just find it's not up to the job.... ....what would be really useful would be the option for a 'portable' version of the C Spanner Plus that could be carried on the bike
Thanks for the help Mine is an 1100, so some of this does not apply. A C spanner was not a part of the toolkit, or the tension guide, which is a pity. In the manual it says take it to a dealer, hopeless! I have now ordered a C spanner on ebay, but must say I like the idea of the one shown here
Can I ask a stupid question here. It says to adjust the chain on the side stand " wheels on the ground / suspension weighted" if you have your bike on the single sided rear paddock stand and the front end off the ground on a paddock stand is the suspension not weighted the same BUT making it a lot easier to work on the bike? just a thought!
Good point and I'd say you're right......can't see that the bike in the video above has the front lifted though (could be wrong?). Another point I forgot to mention, adjustment of the chain should be done whilst taking your measurement/alignment with the guide/gauge tool at the tightest point of the chain......with the tightest section of chain set correctly the chain can only be slightly loose elsewhere whereas if adjustment is not done at the tightest spot you will end up with sections too tight (worse than too loose) - assuming the chain is in serviceable condition. You can use the chain adjustment guide/gauge with the rear of the bike only on a stand or the bike on the centrestand. Complete chain check/adjustment as per the book and with the chain at the exact same position compare chain rivet alignment with the guide/gauge tool again whilst the bike is on the stand - you can now see the variance and make an alternative alignment mark on the tool where the centre of the chain rivets align with a permanent marker pen. In future adjustment can be made on the stand using the alternative alignment mark
Coach, yes that's right, dealers do it that way and you can see a paddock stand is used in the cornerspeed youtube clip, The side stand method is fiddly when trying to find the tightest spot in the chain. I considered getting one of these Rear Paddock Stand ConStands Ducati Multistrada 1200 red Motorcycle | eBay from recommendations on this forum, they are about £70, I don't think a front stand is needed, here is a clip showing how its used ConStands Single BMW paddock stand usage instructions - YouTube. Then to complete the picture, you could get a bike lift :wink: MC365 Motorcycle Lift 365kg Hydraulic: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools I think I have got carried away, perhaps that's why the manual says take it to the dealers, mine says they will not charge to check the chain adjustment.
I've got one of those paddock stands and one of those 'C' spanner Plus thingies and all the rest of the gear require. Looks like the jobs a gud'n Ive never been one to rely on the basic toolkit spanners, where if you needed to use it at the side of the road might get you out of trouble. The 'C' spanner Plus is by FAR a more superior tool.
Chain adjustment - 2013 bikes (the GT anyway) Mate came round for me to check/adjust the chain on his 2013GT today......wtf is this (circled)? ...perfectly placed so as to block access for even a 3/4" socket drive to undo the two upper splash guard (crud guard) Allen bolts! So, without removing the cable/pipe guard you can't get a torque wrench on the splash guard bolts either. Also, I notice that with the Sachs active suspension the suspension is hard as a rock (virtually no movement/give) with the ignition off so maybe the ignition should be 'on' for checking chain adjustment? No mention of that being the case in the MTS1200GT Owners Handbook/Manual though (page 234 onwards)... And anyone any idea why the rear brake disc has a groove in it (arrowed)?
You've got to be kidding. The C spanner in the toolkit is made of chocolate, and is not up to adjusting the chain even once never mind regularly. Mine just twisted out of shape straight away.
And anyone any idea why the rear brake disc has a groove in it (arrowed)? in english ?? :biggrin: Tension nut.
Many Ducati front discs, including the ones that were on my ST4s, have a groove around them. I don't know what for, maybe something to help prevent them warping?
