998s Refurb

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by West Cork Paul, May 24, 2020.

  1. Could you push the individual connections home with a small screw driver
    To prove it one way or another
     
  2. I’m gonna open up those tabs and then push the connectors back into the plug and see if they stay in place as they should. I’ve nowt to lose, worst case it’s the plastic tabs inside the AMP connector they push against that’s knackered so I’ll get a replacement.

    Interestingly I read about so many other people’s bikes not running due a misfire and they’re pointed down the path of plugs/coils/HT leads/fuel pump/fuel filter/CPS/TPS/alarms/immobilisers/etc etc., and I wonder how common this particular issue may be :thinkingface:.
     
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  3. Referring back to #241 and the one above I bent out the tabs as indicated and pushed the cables back into the plastic connector. Gave them a little tug and they seem to be holding firm :upyeah:.

    Reconnected the plug to the injector, refitted the air filter and tank, turned her on and HOORAY she fires up and runs :upyeah::D; runs cleanly too, no misfires:).



    Only one thing to do now. Kit on and road test :D:D:D.

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    100km later, perfect, the connector repair has survived the bumpy West Cork roads :upyeah: no more misfire.
     
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  4. Well done Paul. Great find that dodgy connector. :upyeah:
     
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  5. As I fitted wider exhausts the right hand rearset had to be spaced out, no way it was going back on with the 50-54mm link pipe in place. Temporarily I used 3 x 2.5mm washers I had laying around but I’ll have to pick up some proper collars, maybe 10mm as even with a 7.5mm space out the rearset, and especially the CF heel guard are still too close to the exhaust IMO. I’ve applied some heat tape to the back of the heel guard just in case.

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  6. When I removed the original ecu in order to replace it with one for 50-54mm I discovered it was earthed via one of the 2 bolts which secure it to the battery holder. As the battery holder is plastic and as the bolt is a 6mm bolt which passes through an 8mm tunnel in the ecu casing this doesn’t to me seem to be quite right. Especially as there’s a threaded 6mm hole directly beneath it which would be a much more secure earth. With a 6mm bolt in an 8mm hole it wiggles around, I just can’t see that’s the right place for it to be earthed.



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    It’s now earthed into the threaded hole beneath, making a secure and consistent earth. That’d be the one with the screwdriver stuck in it in this photo.

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  7. image.jpg I think my old DP rearsets had spacers.
    The Gilles ones are about 10mm.
     
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  8. Top hole in the ecu. I taped those unsightly wires up as well. :)

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  9. Changed it to a pressure sensor for the digital dash.
     
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  10. Took her out again yesterday in the sun, now the dodgy connector to the injector’s been fixed and the exhausts are correctly fitted she starts first time and runs like a dream, no flat spots, no stuttering, perfect fueling (nice ecu @funkatronic , thank you).

    However, the suspension needs some fettling (apart from the dirt which will get removed over the winter). The front’s ok but the back is way too harsh, bounces me all over the place and out the saddle at times. It’s not nice on the roads around here at anything over 75 unless the road surface is newly laid and race track smooth.

    The spring is 1091-21 75 designed for 90-100kg riders with full gear. A bit light perhaps for me as I’m 97kg in the buff. I suspect however, it’s presently got too much compression applied, see photo.

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    I know they’re different shocks but the Showa on my 748 has only 5-6 threads showing now I’ve set it up correctly this has about 13 and the spring rating on my Showa is about the same as this one ie 75Nm.

    I’ll have to book some time in SWMBO’s diary so she can help me set up the suspension properly for me.

    Gratuitous photo shot :D
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  11. If you can't hand le it Paul I can look after it for you - lovely roads around here :p:D
     
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  12. Reckon you’d be best off getting it serviced especially if you don’t know when last done.
    Shouldn’t cost much more then £250 without a spring change. :upyeah:
     
    #253 bettes, Oct 4, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2020
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  13. It's probably never been touched since it left Ohlin's factory. Yeah, I've found a place in Cork who are Ohlin's factory trained suspension guys so I plan to take it there over the winter, get it fully serviced and have the suspension on the bike set up professionally by them rather than me doing it - although my attempts to date on other bikes haven't been too bad, at least a noticeable improvement over how they were.
     
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  14. You mean too much preload Paul if you are counting threads showing. HTH.
     
  15. Yep, that's the word - too much Guinness last night, Thanks. :upyeah:
     
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  16. You can never have too much Guinness:innocent:;), i've said this before we need a Guinness emoji:upyeah:.
     
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  17. Also while it’s in parts I’d get an alloy body to replace the steel.
     
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  18. Do you mean the body of the shock itself?
     
  19. Yes. I had mine done a few years ago. Unless you like the originality of the plated steel it’s a no brainier as it’ll be striped down for a service anyway. Or it should be !-)
    I’ll see if I can find the pics of mine.
    Not the best quality photo. But the body comes as a sort of grey anodised finish.
    15.jpg
     
    #260 doogalman, Oct 4, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2020
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