Yes, on the 1198 of 2010 there are three, and the drawings in the manual which circulates online are not consistent. The manual indicates one as "injector relay" and one as "fan relay". I am not sure if the third is for fuel pump, ignition or the other fan. Two are close to each other and next to the battery, while the third is placed a little lower and horizontal rather than vertical.
The two together are the coil/injector/pump and fans relays. The third is the ignition relay. The wiring diagram is at the back of the owners handbook. Download it as it will assist you in fault diagnosis.
Thanks for the suggestions. I re-checked the connectors of the ignition, and I mounted (few weeks ago already) a new coil. Indeed, I do not know yet if it is one cylinder only or both. During the test I described above (when removing one ignition coil) the engine was probably running well just by luck. I am suspecting now the TPS: will write a new post in short...
Luke, although you might think it’s okay, you do need to check the loom to the coil as it sounds like the possible candidate for where the whole problem started from. At the very least it might be that the loom repair isn’t good enough, or at the worst it’s damaged the loom and/or the ECU if feed to coil shorted out on the radiator.
Update: yesterday the engine was running almost normal. Today it was running really bad, and the engine even stopped multiple times. Sometimes, more than sharp cuts (where 100% of the power disappears), the engine runs just very roughly (i.e. with a lot less power) -maybe the word "cutting out" in the title was not a good choice. Anyhow, I decided to record all the messages on the CAN bus from the plug under the pillion seat. I drove with a laptop in the backpack, and saved on disk all the information very similarly to what is described in this great post: https://pulsesecurity.co.nz/articles/ducati-can-bus (I used a USB2CAN adapter by Korlan, https://www.8devices.com/products/usb2can_korlan, and run "candump can0" on GNU/Linux). I plotted then the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) opening, the engine rotation speed (rpm) and the motorcycle speed (km/h), which are all logged in the CAN messages with ID 0x080 (bytes 5, 3 + 4 and 1 + 2 respectively). The result is shown below. The horizontal axis is the time in arbitrary units (in fact, it is the number of the CAN bus message). At the beginning of the plot, I did not manage to start the engine, and I had to open the throttle a lot (blue curve) before succeeding. See the legend for the color code: The image below is a zoom of the final part of the previous image: the engine stops (it died alone, I did not turn it off). The motorcycle speed increases also without engine only because I was going downhill. What seems strange to me is that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) position (blue curve) oscillates very rapidly before the engine dies off (I don't think that it was me with the throttle). Therefore I suspect a faulty TPS sensor. This was confirmed by measuring the resistance between the positive pin and the signal pin of it: it varied between 1kohm and 3kohm, but with random steps. What I find strange, is that GuzziDiag (which displays the throttle position) did not show any random behavior, but its update speed is very slow (in the order of 1 second). Ducati says that the TPS cannot be replaced alone, and one needs to order an entire block which costs about 1400EUR! Fortunately, Chrisw already found out that the TPS is identical to the Fiat part number 71738921: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threa...st-gen-diavel-throttle-position-sensor.72557/ Does this interpretation make sense? People who have the Ducati logging USB stick do observe similar noise on the TPS signal? How can the old TPS be removed without too much damage to the rest? Just pull hard? I do not see any clips or screw. PS: I also replaced the ECU with one with lambda-sensors disabled, and disconnected the lambda-sensor electrical plugs. After that, I got just one error with GuzziDiag: "P0120 too high", which is related to the TPS (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0120 ).
Good point, thanks. I did not think to that. Hopefully I did not burn two ECUs (I think I first exchanged the ECU before exchanging the coil). I will check the location of the repair for shorts.
The tps should pull out, with a bit of resistance. It’s held in with a sort of toothed metal ring. This will deform as the tps is removed.
(Sorry, - missed the ECU swap) it's worth ruling out all ancilliaries before taking more drastic actions Here's one "aftermarket" TPS alternative but can't vouch for quality:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193502063092 and another - (claims it's a "MAGNETI MARELLI" ):- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-TPS-IPF2C-Ducati-Fiat-SEICENTO-DOBLO-PUNTO-71738921/113409653410?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=225076&meid=7b02be581060434d90c3ef878b20e00e&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=4&mehot=co&sd=193502063092&itm=113409653410&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&algv=DefaultOrganic&brand=Magneti+Marelli&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Link for California Cycleworks TPS's (Forum Subscriber discounts apply of course) I sell these CCW TPS's to many Main Dealers in the UK and Europe. Even Aston Martin Works have used out PF-09's http://www.exactuk.com/ccw-throttle-position-sensors/
Update (bingo!): yesterday I ordered by the Fiat dealer the TPS, and it came in 24h. Original Magneti Marelli. So I took the old off (with the help of a Dremel, I excavated the plastic until I could reach the metal retaining clips). With the new TPS, it worked perfectly (but I run also just 10km -the bike had no fairings, and the police in CH is sooo.... I guess I can't say, hence better not to risk). I sectioned the old TPS, which clearly shows bad signs of wear (images below). Where the TPS is located (for those who are not familiar): The TPS without cover, but still with the inner rotating part with metallic fingered contacts. Some wear on the ohmic stripe can be recognized: The inner rotating part with the fingered contacts (I guess I bent them while taking it apart): The TPS without the inner rotating part. Notice the wear on the ohmic stripe (the hole was done by me with the Dremel while taking the TPS off): The ohmic stripe alone. The hole was done by me. The wear on the ohmic black parts is clearly visible: Hence that's no surprise that the bike wasn't running well. I would suggest to change TPS by default as part of the 24'000km service (or earlier) anyhow (my bike has now 22'000km). Thanks everybody again for the tips and the support!! And happy -ing!! PS: here are two additional links related to the TPS: * https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/1200-multistrada-throttle-position-problem-tps.80483/ * https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-749-999-tps-replacement.24535/
PS: after the time I set the exhaust on fire by running on a single cylinder (see beginning of this thread), I noticed that I can see thorough the OEM exhaust the catalytic converter glowing. I describe that in another thread: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/1198-exhaust-burned-out.74056 View attachment 220978 <-- for some reasons I can't delete this line any more.
