Thanks Paul - appreciate the input - i suppose i do have to trust them, i've updated my initial thread - just seems strange to say sell it as non runner or we'll strip it down and see what we get...a little too vague
Hi yes, they're a main dealer, and from what i know of them, a good one. i've update my original message
Thanks very much - this seems to be the overwhelming advice from the forum. So i'm going to ask them/tell them to proceed on that
Hi Rick, thanks very much for taking the time out to put a very informative reply on my thread - i have edited my original post to make it a little more complete and provide some time context. As far as i'm aware they attached another tank to mine (mine, by virtue of coincidence has a ceased bolt on the union i believe) the dealership said they would need to drill it out. Anyway, in testing another tank they have been unable to start it. They have not advised on the head gasket or a compression test, just that they believe the water to have collected and come from the tank - aided by a blocked breather tube. They have used a borescope, how competently i don't know, they have said they can't see that level of damage [valves and cranks] but the only way to be sure is to strip it down! options they have given me are strip it down to see what if anything need replacing, best case dry and lubricate and put back together, worst cranks or something need replacing and i'm in for thousands, or they "give me back a box a bits" and i sell for spares. Or, i sell as a non runner now! Crap really - so i'm thinking of taking your advice and asking the to check the head gasket, test the compression etc, if they cant see bad damage with the borescope we'll assume that thats because there isn't? then replace the plugs, maybe the oil as its due a change and see what happens?
Hi Kevin: It's good to have more information. As the dealer has not mentioned anything wrong with the oil, i.e. it's all there and it's not contaminated, this is REALLY good news; it's not a blown head gasket indicating loss of coolant into the motor. The dealer also made no comment about loss of coolant; again REALLY good. The dealer tried another tank, assuming this tank and it's pump/filter to be OK, the bike still would not start so maybe an injector issue - this could be an electrical/electronic problem not mechanical. Lots of could-be scenarios. If it was my bike, I would put the bike on a stand that lifts the rear wheel, pull the plugs, put the bike in first gear and rotate the motor by turning the rear wheel slowly by hand. This is a quickie check on the motor's movements. The dealer's statement about the motor feeling tight is highly subjective; if the plugs are in when trying to turn by hand then it's hard to gauge. If the motor is turning easily then good; it's unlikely that there is crank/valve damage. I do not suspect hydro lock; hydro locking is a violent, mechanical action, especially on a motor with only two cylinders. I'd drain the fuel tank, pull the fuel pump assembly and carefully inspect the fuel filter; it's a replacement part that can be removed/cleaned/replaced. The blocked breather tube comment is interesting; if the tank can't breathe, a vacuum will be generated inside the tank as the fuel pump sucks fuel. This does not explain how water would get into the tank. The fact that the dealership can't get the motor running is very worrying; they must have checked the ignition system, fuel system and air box. It is possible that they have not checked the air filter. It's unlikely based on your description so far but I'd make sure the air box is not restricted, clean and the air filter is in good shape. If air is good and sparks are good then its a fuel issue. You didn't answer my question about your mechanical competency! If you sell as a non-runner or box of bits, you will take a big hit. It's almost winter. I'd bring the thing into my living room, binge watch Desmowerx on YouTube, buy some tools (and maybe a few beers) and investigate and fix the problem myself. If this is beyond you, you could put out an APB for local bike-nuts to help; if you were one of my neighbours, I'd be all over this. There are lots of guys like me, you just need to find one who lives close to you. There are lots of people here and on Facebook forums who will help too. Good luck.
Pulling the spark plugs and rotating the rear wheel while in gear sounds like a prudent next step based on a good borescope and known good clean fuel source with good air and spark. Some further diagnostics seems needed. "Tight" is subjective but, it is triggered by something. Since the head gasket checks out good as do oil and coolant levels and quality, I wonder about a bearing that is starting to seize or a bearing journal that is dragging. As noted, small amounts of water would be bad for injectors but, you should see exhaust indicators if fueling was off. Hydrolock would be very violent and I honestly don't see how enough water could be in a tank of fuel to Hydrolock the motor while still running well for your ride. If drag or internal FRICTION was increasing as you rode, the engine power likely overcame it. Then you got home and parked it. Now it drags enough to turn the motor over too slowly. Pull all the spark plugs and injectors and "hand roll" the engine over and feel for any 'catches' or other anomalies. Then test the injectors to make sure they are spraying properly. I don't see mileage listed on your ride so, internal bearing issues are a long shot but consistent with an engine with no obvious mechanical issues (no metal flecks in the oil or oil filter). When you change the oil, have a sample sent off for analysis. This will tell you if the engine has a non-catastrophic problem that is starting and will become catastrophic at some point.
