Hoping to get the old off and new on Sunday. Sure those 14yr old studs will hold out way when removing the front header ..... Any tips to make it easier I’m going to soak them in wd40 from tomorrow
Bradders I used this stuff to undo my exhaust flange bolts on the 899. Soaked for 30 minutes and came out easy peasey. In my experience far better than WD40. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjACegQIChAC&usg=AOvVaw26AiMuRxwF4KKP-p0Xgw-G
AFC 50 and the judicious application of heat if required. Check out "delboys Garage" on Utube, he did a vid on it.
WD40 is not the best for that job. There are much better products out there, I use Transyl from Owatrol. Also this thread might help, my 2009 1100S. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/rusted-exhaust-nut-removal.76603/
This is really good stuff: https://www.industrialoutlet.co.uk/...kt87SZPRXTd4jxuSSTaazL6NMC4UyM-kaAngLEALw_wcB
Seems the best penetrating fluid is home made, a mix of transmission fluid and acetone. https://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/116872-best-penetrating-oil-test-results/
On a slightly different tack - and to prove that I am out of touch - I watched several YouTube videos of the Triumph Tiger 900. The standard exhaust sounds fine and the whole thing is made of stainless. The first thing said by the YouTube "stars" on their "road test" was that they would change the exhaust - like it has become a ritual. A stainless steel exhaust on a brand new bike that sounds fine - why is the first, most important, job to change the exhaust? Make it even louder? Make it faster (when there is no ways that you can even use the standard power to its max - or just save money and don't bother buy the bike and just burn your driving license) ? When this "exhaust" thing first started, it was because exhaust on jap bikes were terrible - mild steel that wouldn't last one winter, heavy, and an extra few mph on a 90 mph bike was useful. But I think things have changed. With the Triumph, you will spend hundreds (or thousands) junking a perfectly good part. But I don't know what I'm talking about for I am not a Youtube "star".
Saps power, nicer sound (baffles in - no gixer or Harley nonsense noise) and takes lots of weight off. And when selling time comes out std back on and it makes the bike look far cleaner.
Managed to get a go this afternoon after leaving soaking a couple of days. Didn’t hold much hope out... But bit more soaking, firing a socket on, bigger leverage bar and got them off! Including all the studs. So new going back on.... Think the cans and system look a nice match The 22mm probe fits the system, and looks like the two blanking plugs on the std headers will. Shame o can’t work out how to get them out! The look like an Allen head but aren’t..any ideas?
I’m going to refit the lambda, any idea if this will create an issue if I ride it like that until I can get the ecu out and flashed?
None. I had to think why it wouldn’t go on very well, then looked and realised my Halfords set is mostly 12 point and I tried the 6 point and flew on.
