The stripping is the easy part, the rebuild is what scares me, watching YouTube and some parts look as hard as hell.. I have only ever changed clutch plates and piston rings before this.. Top information many thanks Should I also replace these with new?
I didn’t, I reused them but one had a habit of continually falling out whilst the crankcase cover was off and I was repainting it. Hence why I say keep an eye on them. You’ll need to order some ThreeBond as well for reassembling the crankcase covers. Do you plan to split the crankcases as well?
Yes I have put the ThreeBond on my ebay watch list ready for when I need it. My plan is to also split the crankcases and send all of the engine cases to be cerakoted. Then let the rebuild begin, /still reading up on jobs like working out the shims for the crank, squish measurements and setting up the valves... Jamie
Cerakote very searching and it found its way into places I did not want it when I had my fork outers done. Make sure you either tell the people applying the finish where it cannot be or mask up yourself. Andy
If you’re getting the entire engine cerakoted why not rebuild it entirely and then just mask off the inlets & outlets?
that (washer) is a shim! it is a critical size! the split in it is a fauld and you are lucky to have found it! its the exact one that caused my engine to fail! (replace it bud!) also the dished washer from the stator needs replacing as they are a one use item! (not exspensive) either of them! the shim in the photo looks like its been cut! its very strait! also the timing layshaft 22mm nut has a washer under it that should be bent up against the nut! the photo looks like the waSHER IS FLAT!! that would suggest that some idiot hasnt put the bike back together properly! again! lucky you found this! with regards to the 22mm nut you can put a socket extention through the hole in the sprag, there is an oil hole to the top right to jam it while you undo it with a normal spanner! use the same way to toque it back up with the deep socket when you buy one! and please make sure you bend the washer back up against the nut!!! F,Y,I.......the timing layshaft has a toothed roller on the other end! its easier to remove that before you undo the sprag with the 22mm nut! be warned though (its still a bastard to get off) regards rich
So glad I have started this strip down as you never know what you might find, I never wanted to restore the bike without checking what the heart of the beast was like. At least once it's done it will hopefully be solid. I guess it split because it was incorrectly fitted and trapped? I will put that on my order list for new bit I require Sorry pal, I flattened both this washer and the one on the primary drive before taking the pics, looking at the internals I don't believe it have been stripped down this far before but I could be wrong, any other tell tale signs to spot if they have been split before? Great Tip, I will hopefully get this off tonight then, also I have already took off the toothed roller on the other side... Did you use the correct Ducati tool to remove the primary gear on the other side or did you manage to get a pully on it? I can see you being a valuable asset during this rebuild, many thanks for your help so far!!!!! Jamie
when i tore my bike down i was pissed, i can remember the swingarm pivot bolt was siezed through the engine!! i took to it with a 1/2 inch, long socket bar and a 22LBS sledg hammer! i woke up the next day and the bike was in bits.....i had a cracking hangover but cant remember tearing the engine down! to answer your question! nope, i dont have the primary drive ducati tool haha! ive taken it off since to put the sps stuff on and it was still a bastard to get off! ive got a clutch and engine locking tool! brute force and ignorance haha
i would say someone has been in the engine before! the washer above the oil pump has been re used! a proper ducati tec, would never bend it up against the retaining nut in that fashion! (it looks shoddy) take comfort in the fact you have found these faults! the shim from behind the stator....they can become trapped but what happens is they eventually find their way onto the seat where they are supposed to be! then you loose torque on the stator nut and a whole load of trouble! on last thing! (i know your a ways off this yet) when you put the flywheel back on there are 2 little timing marks on the outer edge of the flywheel! they are 270 degrees apart, make sure these are in the right place. they are so you can set the air gap for timing! it wont stop the bike from working one bit but if you get it wrong you will have to take the engine cover off to be able to set the gap! the timing marks when correct are visable though the little window on the stator casing. regards rich
i was just reading about your clutch and the guy that suggested you replace it! its a good shout! a small hack! use a 749/999 clutch if your doing this! its a direct swap,lighter,and most likley you will pick up a used(like new one for peanuts! people used to swap them out for the sigma slippers befor they even turned a wheel on the rd!
Great info, will look out for one.. Hopefully get it split this weekend if I can find a time slot :-( J
All outer parts removed, the engine is now ready to be split.. Plan is to clean both sides, remove all bearings and send them off to be coated. In the meantime I need to order a full set of bearings, do I have to stay with the ducati brand or can anyone recommend any others I can use? Also are the size of the bearings marked on them so that I know I'm ordering like for like? Cheers J
You should be able to download a SKF catalogue online but be careful lots of bearings look similar, if in doubt buy from Ducati unless you can find someone to confirm what you are ordering
The finish line was in sight today but was abruptly halted due to a rounded Allen bolt.. I have trieda torx but no luck so back to the drawing board. Any ideas before I attempt to drill it out?
like clingfilm? will give it a try. just bough an 8mm triple square, will give that a blast and if all else fails then it's the easy out!
Before you do anything else with the allen bolt take a punch that fits inside the hex and give it a good whack with a hammer, then hammer an allen or torx bit and try again, if it fails try a centre punch and get a good hole going on the "ring" outside the hex then try to undo it by hammering the allen bolt undone. If that fails try the stuff above.
If it's not too badly rounded, can you get a regular Allen bit in there and then try an impact screwdriver? I would also try heating the screw/case with MAPP gas. Sure, that won't make the head any better, but it might require less torque to get the screw out. Last but not least, if you've got a welder, you could weld a bolt in there and then use that do undo it. Better yet, find your local machine shop, take the case down there with a tenner (or two), and ask them to unfuck it for you.
Cheers all for the tips and tricks, I've ignored it all week so will drag myself in there tomorrow night to try and unfuck it haha Until then it sits in status
