If you "run it in" ie your brand new expensively built engine, before dyno .... what AFR will you be running it it at? IF presumably the headwork alone works... more air goes in! if you haven't done anything with fuel that will make it very weak... and hot, and probably go bang.... Id say engine AFR set up is far more important than "running it in"
In my opinion the small increase in flow will not affect the charge enough whilst “running in” for you to need to worry about the air/fuel ratio... assuming the same exhaust, air box, filter and no other significant changes. Once you consider it run in and before prolonged periods of WOT you should get the AFR checked under load and perhaps a custom map. But definitely check in with the shop that built your engine and see what they recommend.
If you don’t check it how will you know? Or if it doesn’t make that much difference...what was the point in doing it?
Spoke to him today. He said he was going to run it on the dyno anyway to see if it needs tweaking before running in
Nice project. you’ll probably be thankful you didn’t bother with cams etc. Everything with tuning is a slippery slope. And cams on their own don’t do a lot unless you throw the kitchen sink at the ancillaries generally
I’m not going to lie. If a set of cams came up at the right price at the time of the build I would’ve probably gone for them. But saying that. Like you say. And I know from past experience that cams on there own doesn’t really cut it. They just move the power around so to speak
Every engine I’ve dicked about with that I’ve cammed has needed ignition work. Intake and the right exhaust. Velocity stacks, raised rev limits etc it’s a mega slippery slope. my cbr actually made less power with race cams in it until I went OTT and threw the kitchen sink at it.
When I had my 916 gasflowed, on initial startup after rebuilding the engine it ran like shit - spitting back through the intakes etc. due to running too lean. I don't think it would have fared too well if I'd done any serious mileage on it before getting the fuelling within an acceptable range before taking it to the dyno - indeed, looking at the spit-backs it probably would have caught fire.
With no other changes I’m surprised. That would obviously need the fuelling looked at before riding it any distance, trailer!
Do you know what! Although I’m pushing 49 years of age I am genuinely excited lol. To date this rebuild has cost me just over 3k. I could have saved some money by re using various bits but went above and beyond and thought if your gonna do it you may as well do it right. As well as gearbox and engine build with all new bearings, seals, gaskets, rings, gas flowing etc it’s had a new clutch, belts, idlers. While the bike was in bits in the garage I done the fork seals. Easy to do but an absolute nightmare to source the seals for the 09 S model. I’m looking forward to getting it run in so I can sort the air filter and get it set up properly to see if the head work has helped. In one way it was a fucker I had to do this. I’ve spent nearly as much on the build as it cost to buy the bike in the first place. But on the other hand it’s give me chance to tidy the bike up with sending bits off to the powder coaters etc. Something I probably wouldn’t of got round to doing. I know I’m going to struggle doing the mileage it needs to run it in unless I spread it out until next summer lol. With work and family commitments I don’t get chance to do big mileage.
