Has anyone done this or knows a bit more about it? Since my engines likely to make near 100 hp once current mods are finished, I'd like to potentially convert to this type of oil supply, both for efficient feed to the heads, and more rapid cooling.
From the pics I've seen, it looks like a case of just drilling/facing/tapping the end caps to take banjo bolts (presumably centred on the cam bearing), with supply taken from the oil pressure switch location
Yes, seems relatively straightforward, and from what I've discovered so far, I'm beginning to piece it together, just wondered if anyone had done it for guidance
Couple of further (probably obvious) thoughts come to mind - 1. You'd need to p!ug the existing internal oil feeds (@ top of cylinder?). Also, if you're heading for 100hp, I'm guessing there's some serious porting, and you're breaking through into the existing oil gallery at the top of the inlet port - hence the need for external feeds, rather than for extra supply?
Thankfully I found the Grub screws that had been used to do this on a pair of Barrells I was about to use on an engine. On checking with the previous owner the original engine had been converted to external oil feeds. So, yes, it would appear this needs to be done. Nasher.
Porting has not been done, I'm doing all the mods without that. Its something I've considered, need to find someone with a flow bench. There's no one local I know of. Bikes been dynod with 85hp at the wheel, so its in the 90s pre capacity increase
'Scuse my hignorance, but if you are going to direct feed the camshafts via the end caps and block off the other oilways, are the rockers going to be starved a bit?
My SSie is running the "Testa Rosso" heads from way back. Guy Martin of MBP fame in Canada did them and they run external oil feeds to the heads/cams. Guy machined up new end plates and the oil lines, similar to the 748/916, pick up the supply from the oil pressure switch union and feed to each head. The oil gallery in the rear head/crankcase was plugged up with a grub screw. It's been many years since I built it and nearly as long since I did much more with it, but it's a simple enough setup. If you search out the head conversion, MBP or Guy himself, you may glean a bit more info?
As far as I know, once the oil reaches the end of the camshaft (either by internal or external path), its route is the same thereafter
Indeed, MBP make (or made?) bearing caps with oil feeds. Take the feed from the oil pressure sensor pickup and block the feed from cylinder to head, I have them on my Monster;
The oil gets to the rockers through the camshaft so the route is the same but running directly to the cams gets it there direct from the oil pump, without passing through the hot cylinder jacket first.
Do you use an open ended bearing in the caps or a closed ended bearing to help with oil flow to the cam?
Can anyone please explain how the feed is supplied from the pressure switch? I've seen pics of different cases with a banjo on, but these seem to be exclusive to high end performance models like an RS
On mine, I think it’s a machined adapter. Think of a clutch slave banjo bleed bolt but with a M10 x 1 female for the pressure switch where the bleed nipple would be. Oil line is fed off a banjo with the adapter securing it, then the pressure switch is screwed in to the top. I’ll grab a picture when I get a chance
The bearings are closed on the inside so that the oil flows down the cam, there's plenty of oil in the bearing anyway and the oil passing through the cam gets everywhere else once it's passed the rockers.
I have a braided line with banjo fittings, much like a brake line with a 'T' that splits to the two heads once it's crossed through the 'V' of the cylinders. It sandwiches between the pressure switch and casing using an adapter much like the service part used for fitting an oil pressure gauge, at least it would but I have the pressure switch fitted in the oil cooler so just use an M10 x 1 banjo bolt for a neater solution. To add, here's the fitting with pressure switch on top before fitting the cooler with pressure switch fitting in it;
Or, you could use Dd's neat solution, and omit the pressure switch altogether - it's not really a lot of use?
