Hi all! Its been a while since I was last on the forum, but I am in desperate need of advice/ help/ guidance. My 1098s has had a persistent stalling issue that has plagued my ownership of the bike for the last 4 years. The stalling goes as follows: The bike starts fine, runs fine, but when I am sitting in stationary traffic or at a set of lights, at least twice per ride, the bike will reach between 85-100 degrees C, and out of nowhere stall. The best way I can describe it is, is as if the bike is either being starved of fuel or there's some fuel air mix issue? Like it just coughs and then dies! I should also point out that the bike has Termi slip-ons, and the corresponding ECU to match. So far in my pursuit of fixing the issue, I've given the bike new oil and filter, new spark plugs, a new battery, and I've treated it to some Red-eX when I fill the tank, but to no avail! The bike has also been treated to upgraded starter cables, and a mosfet reg/rec upgrade too. I'm at my wits end with the damn thing! I love the bike too much to sell it, but really struggling to find a way to love it again. PLEASE HELP!!!!
I have been chasing this problem since 2009 on my bike and never really ever had it fixed, it has been to a few dealers and a very good ducati specialty shop and nobody has ever been able to cure it. Multiple compression , valve checks, air fuel adjustments , tps adjustments, spark plugs ect just ended in time and money wasted. My firm belief is that it has something to do with idle ignition timing because people who have had this problem that have installed microtech ecu's do not seem to have this problem anymore. My bike is a track bike now so the only time I have issues with stalling is waiting in the pits or at the line for the track session to begin, it is still frustrating and also puts more wear on the sprag clutch.
Frustrating to say the least, if really no other symptoms then I would probably do some trial and error swaps (if you haven’t already). Have you tried another ECU yet?
A long shot but I had similar issues with my 07 1098s, after exhausting all other avenues it was the flywheel bolt that was loose. Worth a try as I only looked after it being suggested by someone else who had similar issues, so it's not unheard of
I’m missing in your root cause the dyno run. If it was me I book a dyno run and flash the ecu accordingly at a good specialist. It solved my problem with my 1st 1098 SF.
A simple fix on the early released bikes was to open up the air bleeds on the throttle bodies, the rear one in particular. I had a 2007 bike and it solved the issue for me. Opened the rear air bleed by a full turn iirc
To be honest I’m new to all the fettling that could be done. How do you go about opening the air bleeds?
Looking from the RH side of the bike, in each throttle body there is a recessed brass screw, slotted head. They’re the air bleeds, one for each cylinder. You need to determine their setting first so you can go back if things get worse. Turn each one in slowly and count the turns. Maybe a full turn, maybe a quarter or an eighth even, but note each one down. Put them back to their original setting, then turn them out say half a turn at a time and see how things go. When I did mine, and others I’ve seen since, I’ve left the front cylinder and turned the rear out a full turn. Try that, if it gets worse or doesn’t work, you have your original settings to return to.
Cheers for the advice, I’ll give it a go when I get a chance, hopefully it stops the constant embarrassing stalling while sitting at traffic lights
Yeah I need to get a good reflash anyway after I finish putting my engine back together, the problem is finding a good shop because I am tired of wasting money on people who just keep trying the same thing and not fixing it. Did your reflash include ignition timing or just air/ fuel map adjustments?
Over here there is a good specialist “Biggelaar” they performed there maintenance schedule incl. valves, timing etc. All is set-up as it should be, which is different (tighter) than the factory setting. After their work valve adjustment is guaranteed for 24000km. A dyno set up is standard after there work. I lived in the uk for a year and motorapido does the same, hoping it’s not too far away. Any way good luck and it’s just a road I should take to get the 1098 as it’s supposed to be. Cheers
Check the fuel tank vent pipes on the RHS at the back of the fuel tank. The connectors attached to the tank corrode and instead of a 2mm it can get choked down to next to nothing. So the tank creates a vacuum and starves the injectors. Cured mine.
I just finished a engine rebuild , pistons belts bearings ect and the one additional thing I did was replace the fuel filter. My bike starts better and does not stall out at idle anymore which it has done since 2009 at 7500 miles, I strongly feel like the fuel filter was the problem because it has rust and dirt coming out of it when I shook it. By the way this was the original fuel filter from 2008 with 16k miles on it today.
