Has anybody had their stanchions re-chromed? Any tips on how to remove the fork bottom from the tube - as required by hard chroming company ? thanks
There is a small grub screw on the inner face of the ally leg bottom which needs to be removed first. The ally bottom then unscrews, though it’s pretty tight and has thread lock on it, so it isn’t easy. Best chance is to get an ally cube with the right size hole and a slit through from the centre of one face, to clamp the stanchion firmly in a vice, and find a steel bar which fits in the axle clamp. Local heat will help overcome the thread lock. Something like this, but check size! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Fork-Holding-Tool-43mm-Forks-/124017607952
thanks - I am going to try holding fork bottom in vice and using a bar through holes in top of tube to unscrew. Plus lots of heat!
I would advise against that method. The tube wall thickness is actually very thin and it's incredibly easy to deform the tube around the hole with the bar. Once there is any deformation the re-chromers won't touch them. I think you can guess how I discovered that a few years ago! I recently had a similar issue with the Marzocchi forks in my 97 M900, and was surprised at just how cheap a new tube was, even for the Marzocchi forks that were not used much. Mine came from here: https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/f...0-monster-paolo-tarozzi-fork-stanchion-98-99/ I had a little bother with Brook on this order, but I know others rate them highly, so would probably go back. Don't expect actual next day delivery when you pay for it as it's next day after they receive it from their supplier. On the Marzocchi forks the bottom casting is just a push fit. I held the tube in a vice with soft jaws and put the axle back in the bottom casting. After using a lot of heat from a blow torch on the casting it was easy to knock the casting off the tube by hammering on the axle with a plastic faced mallet right beside the casting. The new tube went back in far easier than the old one came out as I reheated the casting and the new tube had been in the freezer for a few hours getting nice and cold. Nasher.
Thanks Nasher! Checked their website - one for my 900 ss is £129.00. AM Philpott quoted me £170 to re chrome one stanchion!! Plus cost of postage to them - gulp. Think removing the fork bottom & new stanchion is the way to go - won't be a problem if I damage the old tube, but I think I will try your method for removal. cheers!
There are even cheaper available from Italy if you look, but I wanted to buy in the UK. I do believe that your castings screw on, as Edge of town says, but the heat will still be required to help them off and break the threadlock that's used. Nasher
Might try Italy as in no rush - mine are showa so screwed on, plus tiny torx grub screw to remove first after I have bought a torx to fit! Made some hardwood blocks today to clamp tube in vice. Guy on youtube removes showa fork bottom using vice and spindle as lever . Thanks again for info & suggestions
