Alas I am trying to do this alone, so no big mate to stand on the back brake....any tips for getting 185nm on the f*cking thing?! Tried the rag in the rear sprocket, looked like it would cause more damage than good!
Bike front wheel up against the wall with the bike on its Side stand lean over the saddle from tge right side with your weight on the seat ....pull up or get a rattle gun electric or air
I believe the OP has got the old one off and is now wanting to know how to lock the sprocket to tighten it to the specified torque?
What type of bike is this asked for? On a single sided swing arm, all you need is an OEM style rear paddock stand with the bar that allows you to block the rear wheel. Then you can work alone on your bike, even when serious torquing is required. I would personally never lean on my bike from the right side with my weight on the saddle when it’s on its side stand. Especially when said stand plate is bolted on the engine casing. Heard too many horror stories about failing side stands. I mainly work on 916/998 and side stands on these are not very robust. A lot better with a 848/1098/1198 fitted on these, but still...
Fearful of damaging the wheel tbh if I put a bar in there. I have a different stand but have done that in the past. I did google that stand and could find anything with as clear a picture so thanks that may end up really useful.
I torque my rear wheels (200 Nm) with this and no damage to the rims. The tip of the bar is covered with a pretty decent rubber protection. Which can be reinforced with rags, etc if need be.
I have used a bar locking thru swingers and wheel before. This swingers is different to my old bikes (848 etc) so may have another look to see if thats a possibility
Tightening the front sprocket, will increase the load on the wheel x the reduction ratio of the drive. 3:1 will increase torque to 600Nm at the rear sprocket.
I believe a standard forged wheel spoke is designed to take more than this amount of effort. May be extra caution should be used with carbon or mag wheels, you’re right.
If you have some sturdy Ratchet Straps, how about securing the wheel by passing through the frame, that, in combination with the stand bar would reduce the force on the bar . Iirc I did my 848 sprocket tightening , without the stand using this technique.
Bit late to the party - as usual - but I had trouble with my Monster S4r nut on the last wheel removal before it was killed. Bought a rattle gun and blahh, and straight off this was after busting a Halford's Professional breaker bar trying to remove it (which Halfords replaced) but I already had an air compressor.
Kind of opposite to what Andyb suggested (and I'd trust him to give correct advice) but could you back the bike up to chock the rear tyre against a wall to help lock it? You'd still need to apply force to stop the wheel spinning
