I removed the clutch pressure plate and these fell out from somewhere - can anyone tell me what they are (and where they should be put back!), I can find no mention of them in the manual and couldn't do a search here because what the hell do I call them? Cheers Pete
They look like the rollers from the pushrod needle roller bearing. You will see the pushrod if you have removed the pressure plate. The needle roller is located in the clutch hub where the rod eminates from the centre of it, behind the little seal. You need to remove the seal and remains of the bearing cage and chuck in the bin. Press in new bearing and seal. Grease rod. Reassemble clutch.
Thanks for the quick help. Just to be sure, do you mean the bearing in the inner side of the pressure plate (which takes the tip of the pushrod), or is it the bearing where the pushrod actually enters the clutch housing? So I'd need to remove all the gubbins to get at it? Cheers
It’s the needle bearing that sits in the end of the gearbox shaft, not the push rod cap. As Ricky said, remove the small seal in the shaft (if it’s still there) and pull the bearing out. If you can, try and get the rest of the rollers with a magnet. It helps getting purchase on the bearing cage. As an aside, check the push rod for wear as if the bearing has collapsed, there’s a chance the push rod has worn. If it has, it’ll kill the new bearing so will need a new one.
Thanks for your help guys, it's a pain of course but best to know something's knackered than not know! Seems a bit of TLC is in store, bloody clutch slave cylinder is seized too so thinking of maybe a Oberon or similar 'upgrade' which will hopefully lighten the clutch action as well. Cheers again.
Agree with above, as Nelly says if the needle roller bearing is bust, there's a good chance the rod can get damaged. You can tell by looking at the rod and there will be a groove all the way round, near the end the same size as the bearing. I had to replace my rod as it had done exactly that. In addition, Oberon upgrade is well worth it.
If the bearing has disintegrated, it is likely that the rod has been spinning with the clutch. This can lead to it heating up the fluid at the other end I.e. the slave cylinder. This can then lead to leaks at the slave cylinder. You may not actually need an “upgrade” to Oberon or similar as once you have sorted the bearing then the standard OEM slave may be ok.
Can anyone tell me what type of needle bearing this is, and which seal i needed? I can't find on the exploded views from Stein Dinse. Txs
I cant find the part numbers this minute but I'll look. In this photo you can see a new needle bearing and oil seal, (I remember they were quite cheap parts) as well as a replacement clutch rod (about 35 euros) because my old rod (shown at the top) was badly worn - presumably because my old needle bearing had collapsed completely and some of the needle rollers had 'escaped' from the cage. Pete
No, I found rollers from the collapsed needle bearing when I removed the clutch cover. None went into the actual engine but it's best to be careful when removing the clutch pushrod, I'd advise pulling it out carefully from the clutch plate side if you're worried about pieces of the needle bearing going into the engine. I had to get a special tool (Ebay) to remove the clutch plates and basket, but removing the actual needle bearing is a bit of a pain, it's a tight fit and hard to get hold of the bloody thing! I tried heat and lots of perserverence before it suddenly came out. Good luck with the job it's a pain but not impossible. Pete Do you still need to needle roller and oil seal part numbers?
I just realised, that exploded view is for my bike, 900SS 94-97, yours may be different but you should be able to find the right picure and details using the link to Stein-Dinse that Kato posted above. Cheers Pete
Hi Pete, i found the parts: HK0810 is the needlebearing, oilseal 8x12x3 I try to get the bearing out with an blind inner-bearing puller. Fingers crossed
Great. One word of warning ... I'm sure I remember there's a lip in the shaft which is hard to see but the needle bearing sits against it so it's hard to get behind the bearing even with a blind puller. I managed to use a cut down allen key and got it into the broken cage of the bearing then heated the whole area up a bit and pulled, I think the heat helped (but don't use too much heat obviously!). Pete
In my opinion there's no need to use the Ducati original needle bearing - bearing suppliers sell them (same part number you posted above) for only a few pounds. Similar story for the oil seal, easy to find and cheap. Pete
