Most of my riding tends to be in the evening in the dark on warm evenings etc and the one thing that has slowed me down (maybe a good thing) is the rubbish lights. Having read all the posts on Ducatisti about chewed adjusters I decided to investigate and thought I would share this in the hope it might help someone out. Right then, firstly my bike has a taller screen and when it is on full beam the light reflects back and dazzles me so I prefer to use the normal dipped beam whenever I can. Incidentally, the full beam light I would say is about as good as I would expect the dipped beam and a rubbish one at that! For ages I was convinced that it was just the angle of dangle so I tried adjusting the light with the knobs to no avail. It just didnt seem to move so I presumed it was duff like I had read about and accepted it. Little things niggle away at me and this was no exception so I thought I would have a look again..... I started by dropping the black cover off below the headlight unit and while looking underneath, twisting the knobs to see if I could see anything and if the mechanism was indeed brown-bread. To my surprise when I turned the knob I could see the threaded bolt turning and acting on the plastic drive in the headlight..... ace! So I put the bike on a paddock stand so that it was level and turned the ignition on so the lights illuminated against the garage wall. I sat there turning the knob as described in the owners manual and it just did nothing so I kept turning and.... nothing. I began to think it may be at the limit of adjustment so I thought I would give it a go turning it in the opposite direction which would actually lower the beam if you believe the owners manual. After about 30 seconds of turning (not fast to avoid damaging the mechanism) and looking at the illuminated wall, I saw the light move upwards!!!! It almost jumped as if it had been stuck but as I kept turning the knob it only occasionally moved or it moved very very slowly but move it did. So, I just adjusted it and left it as-is with the view of going out and doing some "testing". Well, it was still pretty cr@p so I decided to have a look at a few other odds and ends. I have had a slow rev needle for a while and have been going over the electrical connectors etc and found the fuel pump relay had a small bit of corrosion which kind of explained why it refused to prime a few times since last autumn. The other day I thought "I still havent found the headlight relay" and like all niggles, resistance is futile! What did I find?? This! Ive just got back from a quick blast to test a few other things ive been fettling and I noticed that the lights were actually illuminating street signs and car number plates for a change. When I pulled into the garage I noticed the colour of the light has changed from a dull orange to a bright, slightly golden white light. What a difference a five quid relay makes! I just have to wait for a bit of favourable weather now so I can test it and set the angle of dangle. So, if your headlights are rubbish, yes it may be the angle but dont neglect the relay as in my case it has made a huge difference. :biggrin:
So you must have red about mod to get both lights on at the same time? I done it on my 749 and was also always dazzled by high beam. For that I took a thick piece of rubber, cut it in to a half circle and glued it over the high beam. When nose was back on it was visible from on the bike or if you dropped on your knees and looked up at high bem.
JC I believe it's possible to adjust the angle of dangle with a screwdriver from underneath the headlight once the cover plate underneath the light is removed. I have the same problem as you in that the adjuster knobs are ineffective, and when my bike was being m.o.t'd the headlight was too high so the mechanic told me that he adjusted the beam as mentioned. I do recall Ghost; on the other site, stripping the headlight assembly apart to rectify this problem. Not a quick job, but possible with time and patience!
Yeah ive read about the 2 lights on at the same time but ive not felt the need to try it yet. Rather than a piece of plastic I was going to try a strip of foam as it would seal against the fairing. In terms of the adjustment from underneath I think it is a hex head and not a phillips (Im sure there are variants) but I tried this first. I felt a bit of resistance and it looks to be made out of dairylea so I didnt want to risk it but I might give it another pop. Cheers Guys, all good input. JC
Hi Bloofoot, hows it going? No photos mate but if you remove the black plastic cover from beneath the front fairing and look up you will see the headlight unit. If you are looking at the front of the bike the relay is tucked up on the left-hand side and is secured to the headlight assembly/bucket by a rubber fixing. Its the lowest thing on the left and is a small black rectangular gizmo. Its kind of below where the fuses are on the Right-hand side (sitting on the bike) but on the inside. Remove it from the rubber fixing and pull the relay out (make sure the ignition is off) and have a look. The newer relays are sealed while the originals allow water into the relay and go bad. If your having a play its worth checking the fuel pump relay too but that one is a bit harder to get at as it involves removing the battery box. At the end of the day the relays cost 4.90 each and can be the difference between a breakdown or a great ride. Ive ridden a good few miles since I first posted this (ok, not in the dark) and the biggest difference is the quality of light the headlights now produce and I am now much happier. Let us know how you get on and if you find anything. JC
Yeah I'm good thanks. I'm still riding all weather so just finished doing my regular fuel pump relay clean but thought I'd do the headlight one too. Sounds like a quick job, I'll give it a go right now
Yeah its a quick job. I know people do the old finger of a glove trick with the fuel pump relay but I just moved mine by turning it 180 degrees - ie pointing up and out of the way. Will have to see if it makes a difference.
Mine was already pointing up and I can confirm it was clean as a whistle and dry as a bone. Or if by any chance they make whistles out of bone, it was just like one of those. The fuel pump relay was a different matter. When I fist took it out to replace it it was covered with Dolce Latte Cremeso, this time it was orange paste. Cheers for the info mate
No worries, glad yours is all sweet. One little tip I got from the helpful chap at JHP the other day was if you break down you can swap the relays over. I.e. if the fuel pump relay leaves you stranded you can drop the headlight one out and swap it. I hadnt thought of that and thought it was a good idea as long as you dont need headlights obviously
Just so you know its the same relay as the fuel pump and that sits by the ECU behind the battery box (On a 999) and I recommend changing that every couple of years as 2 of the legs corroded off mine once.
The timing of this thread was great, fuel pump relay failed this evening so I swapped it for the headlight relay to get home, cheers JC! Do I recall someone saying you can buy them in halfords? Got home and can't find my spare - typical!
Yep you can get them in Halfords thing is they are more expensive then at Ducati dealer, well were when I had 749. I also did light/fuel pump switch just at midnight.
Great timing then If you ride in all weathers have you considered going over all the connectors with Di electric grease? Ive read all sorts into this and there are good and bad types. From what I gather you dont want the Silicone type but im yet to find any in Halfrauds and asking for help is like asking for a kick in the nuts... DONT! If anyone can recommend some good Di electric grease it would be awesome. Maybe one for Al or Nog? Im glad you managed to get home without recovery but the praise in this instance must go to the parts chap @ JHP as it was his idea. Now I have changed the relays the fuel pump actually seems quieter too. Hmm. If I were you I would buy 2 so that you have a spare. JC
One of these? Halfords | Halfords (HEF554) Relay 12v 30amp 4 Pin or these? Halfords | Halfords HEF555 Relay 12V 40A 4 PIN Ducati part for me as at least the new ones are sealed and cheaper!
Halfords one's do not look the same as Ducati one but as long as spec matches it will work, the least to get you home. Also maplin will have them but that will be even more expensive. Out of all high street brands going under I am surprised Maplin is still up they overcharge so much!!
Good tip of old, change for new relay, then buy a big rubber glove, cut the bigger finger off, fill it with Vaseline and show up the relay there. Then wrap it all up with electrical tape. That should hold it moist free. It was a recommended mod on Ducatisti.