V4 V4r Common Gearing

for a start the Panigale will bear no resemblance to the BMW
secondly, if you have an R then the std gearing is 15-42

 

can I respectfully suggest you go and learn about ratios...and engine characteristics again the R versus the others..
std R 15-42 is 2.8-1
16.43 is 2.68-1
the std v4 is 16.41 which equates to 2.56-1

if you can max out the engine revs in top gear you are a better man than me gunger din!

get a quick change sprocket carrier and play..

 

you are the wrong way around....15 42 at 2.8 to 1 is short as in run out of revs earlier although on a R you have more revs up at the top end..

renthal is the way..

 

ill leave it with you, you clearly know what you are doing..............

 

Gearing is always a balance.. and a trade off at that. It is partly down to personal preference as well.

for example, some people are happy to use first gear in slow bends. But for me, I’m not keen. Feels like I’m abusing the bike and I generally find it pretty twitchy and unsettled even with kit first gears like my Honda had. Trying to get good drive in first generally is much more of a challenge than second in my opinion unless you’re a super hero.

I usually gear my bikes for usable grunt. Being between gears sucks, especially on something like a 600 where gearing is absolutely critical (for example). Thankfully 1000’s and above are nowhere near as fussy with gearing. So it’ll be about whatever works for you. Depending at what level you’re riding at, you may well find usability and ‘comfort’ for use of a better word may see you doing better, safer laptimes.


The fastest laps I’ve ever done, have often felt like my most sedate (again for example). It’s good to get hold of a gearing chart that’s relative to your level of riding. Then you can adjust as required from what you are feeling.

It can be truly eye opening looking back on lap data and seeing how much or how little of the rev range or indeed power/throttle usage you are using. A lot of riders gear bikes for big dick acceleration, but end up being very lazy on the throttle etc. I’d always rather use the whole throttle and not have to worry about modulating or spending my whole life on the back brake. Again for example. I’d rather end up short shifting and maintaining a WOT than lifting. The aim of the game is to keep driving forwards consistently. Once you build consistency you’re on your way.

 

You'll have 12 months to figure it out anyway LOL

 

Yes, most Euro dates are up in the air as new lockdowns are coming into force, so all of the £££ events are being rescheduled bumping trackdays down the road. We were supposed to go to Mugello last year, got canned... Italy now going into a 3rd lockdown, I can't see it happening this year either.

 

Yep. Tis true.

only issue I foresee is if the U.K. are being difficult about international travel.

but the tracks are definitely open

 

Travel and getting to/from, carnet's, quarantines, covid tests tracks may be open but you've got all that to contend with for 3 days... each time!

 

Are you willing to satisfy an old man’s curiosity ? Have you ridden the V4R on track yet ? Andy

 

Run it stock and see how it feels mate


Generally with the big 1000’s, raise the front and run the wheel base at the longer end of the spectrum. So you may in the long run want a longer chain.

give wilf at moto Rapido a call, he would probably know