Cutting Out And Backfiring At Zero Throttle

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Connor, Apr 4, 2021.

  1. Hello,

    I've had this issue for a while, it seems to come and go but now it's really bad and the bike won't run for more than a minute when warm (>50°) without some fast idle.

    It's happened a few times at trackdays before when leaving the pits or rolling into a corner at 0% throttle, the bike completely cuts out and starts to back fire upon throttle input. The dash doesn't flicker or anything so I doubt it's a ground or harness issue. I went for a little run yesterday and the bike ran great, I gave it a few good revs when parked up and the idle dropped slightly, when I took off again it simply doesn't run without a little bit of fast idle on. I've plugged in an external wideband 02 sensor and the fueling is great, and I've had a look at the injector spray pattern and it seems fine (for an older girl). It seems to idle great when warming up ~1200Rpm where i set it a couple years back, but just keeps cutting out. I reset the TPS which did nothing also.

    I'm at a bit of a loss, it has symptoms of unbalanced throttle bodies but that surely wouldn't cause it to completely shut off whilst riding along. I'm a little confused! I'm a dealer mechanic at a Yamaha and Suzuki dealer so I'm used to diagnosis of problems such as these but hoped someone of more experience with this model could help!
     
  2. I'd speak to Rich at Louigi Moto if I was you
     
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  3. I had a map down there on my 999 which fixed a to low tick over
     
  4. What bike?
     
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  5. Oh sorry.. forgot to mention it's a 999
     
  6. I'm actually in South Wales just now, the fueling is spot on, on both cylinders I've even unplugged the power commander to see if that's being a bit nasty but it didn't do anything different
     
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  7. There is a small earth fly lead that goes onto one of the ECU bolts. It is a PIA to get at as the battery box has to come out and a heat shield removed. Check this for breaks and corrosion. Refix in original position. Whilst you are in there, locate the coil/injector/pump relay. Replace with new. It is a 2 quid part that causes all sorts of problems. Relocate the relay to the top left of the battery box. There is even a rubber receptacle for it. Put it in the finger of a rubber glove for protection.
     
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  8. Thanks for the reply! My bike is quite modified so all the electronics are under the seat, I recently put a new wire onto that ECU earth but I'll double check that relay.
     
  9. also if you think damp or corrosion might be a factor, sometimes corrosion between ECU aluminium heatsink and main, black plastic body can prevent the main earth from working.
     
  10. It only happens when the bike is warm, and the fact that it completely shuts off even when riding makes me thing something like crank position sensor or something that would get upset with temperature
     
  11. Had another play today, I found some corrosion between the throttle butterfly and throttle body itself:
    IMG_20210405_120610.jpg

    I've polished it out with some ultra fine scotchbrite and it seems to have cleaned up ok. Now that the mating surface between the two is a bit buggered I thought it best to mess with the idle screw. Turned it up just a small amount and it seems to have helped. My injectors seem a little splattery, I imagine being so old now they're probably not in tip top shape. I noticed a previous owner has put in R models cams which is nice but I don't have the 12 hole IWP189 injectors, I bet that's not helping the case so I may get some nice new injectors. It's hunting at idle now between 1200-2000Rpm so the throttle bodies definetly need balancing. Work to be done..
     
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  12. IMG_20210405_122449.jpg

    Seems a little worn to me, but it's been a while since I've tested injectors
     
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