Hi all, just about to put some new pads in the the front callipers but they look really tight to the wheel rim….any pointers on removal & reinstall would be welcome as would the torque settings for the bolts …. Cheers
It can be done just about if you ease the pistons back into the callipers slowly using the disc as leverage, and slide it down (I think) a bit first, the side with both banjos is harder so put some masking tape on your rims before you start EDIT: don’t forget to move the spacers between fork leg and calliper - grease can hold em on and it gets you a few extra mm of clearance. Calliper bolt torque is 45Nm from memory but someone will confirm I am sure.
Changed pads and tyres at the same time in June on my 1260s. It's difficult but possible; as said above, rock the calipers on the discs to push the pistons back and use gaffer tape on the rims. It's close but you can slide them out.
That's a good point and lost on my in my case as was changing tyres at the same time anyway. Having said that a chance to clean the pistons that, without removing the calipers, would be hard to do.
On my Hyper, I found it loads easier to remove the calipers; I imagine it's identical on yours. It's only four bolts.... Good advice above about some sort of tape on the rims - it's easy to slip & mark them. I'll look up the torque figure when I'm home later.... Edit: Obviously these are my Hyper calipers & I've no idea if yours are the same (but probably are)
It’s worth taking them off , so you can clean the pistons and stuff out. There’s utube videos of the M50 change
Really? Who are you? Paul Daniels? You may well be right but I always whip the callipers off. I dread to think how long it would take me without taking the calliper off. And not a small amount of swearing!!
From memory 43nm for calliper bolts 17nm for spindle pinch bolts. Dunno what the spindle nut is, I rely on feel for that one … *dickhead alarm (that’s me). Forget spindle stuff. I was thinking front wheel out. I always synchronise pad change with tyre change (track days)
Torque settings: Front callipers: 45Nm and must be set within +/- 5% 'dynamic safety critical point'. Not necessary for dealing with your calliper task, however, if you want for future reference: Fork end clamps - If Marzocchi then 10Nm +/- 5% as above, if Ohlins, then 19Nm again +/-5% 'dscp' Front spindle - 63Nm +/- 5% as above 'dscp' All from the Multistrada 1200 manual and with your bike being a PP model, then the Ohlins torque settings for the fork end will apply. Good luck with the task and definitely be sure to apply some protective tape to the wheel rims opposite the calliper area, as you will mark them if you don't!!!
Managed to change rear pads without removing caliper, had wheel out for a tyre change though. After my cleanup of pistons etc when inserting new SA pads in the front the disc rubbing when wheeling the bike around went away for the duration of my Scottish trip which was pleasing. Rideout to Welsh coast yesterday and it's back Encountered rain for the first time since changing which might be relevant. Yes, a whole week in Scotland without rain
