Can anyone advise on the most cost effective way to change the gearing on a 1299 Panigale to a ratio that doesn’t require a quite so much first gear in slower corners? Is two up on the rear a new chain job? And one down on the front a link out? be interested to know what others have done please. Cheers
2 up on the rear, adjust chain tension and go into the dash and recalibrate the electronics (dead easy, takes 3 mins start to finish). It won’t need a new chain but will shorten the wheelbase a bit which will make it turn faster/lighter (assuming you don’t play with a ride height adjuster) although it shouldn’t make for nervous handling. Going down 1 tooth on the front is approximately the same as 2.5 teeth up on the back. It’s cheaper to buy the front sprocket (as opposed to the single sided swinging arm option on the rear). Again you’ll need to adjust chain tension and electronics but wheelbase will be longer this time and steering a touch slower/heavier. Also, the tighter radius of the front cog will accelerate chain wear slightly. It’s a bit horses for courses tbh. Renthal used to do a convenient rear sprocket carrier that allowed for just the toothed part of the sprocket to be quickly swapped/replaced as required. It’s worth looking into that option too. I’ve done both in the past on various Panigale models and found the larger rear sprocket was a better mix for road/track in various places and was smoother to ride. Mart
Would you say that the Renthal sprocket and carrier is the cheapest way to go up 2 on the rear? Is there an option to buy a 41 tooth rear that’s a direct replacement for the oem? Cheers
You can get replacements without needing a carrier (SITTA for example). Carrier for the small extra cost is amazing though. Literally 2 minute sprocket change.
Totally correct. As Jamie says, there are cheaper ways to buy a rear sprocket but by far the fastest and easiest method for rapid changes in my experience is the Renthal option. It’s a well thought out design; there’s a flange on the back of each of the cush drive rubbers so that if they perish/wear and begin to become loose, they won’t migrate towards the SSSA and cause any damage - nice touch. Have a Google and I’m sure you’ll find out some details about it. If you’re looking for the absolute cheapest way of changing gearing, changing the front sprocket as I described above is the way to do it (although not as recommended) it’ll cost about £20 for the parts plus labour to fit. If you do it yourself, you’ll need to know precisely what you’re doing as it’s very much a serious safety thing. Mart
Thank you for the advice. Looks like a Renthal carrier & 41t sprocket is the way. Will give B&C Express a call on Monday
