Repacking 748 Carbon Termis - Acousta fil

Discussion in '748 / 916 / 996 / 998' started by Red998, Jun 21, 2013.

  1. I need to repack my Termis as they are getting loud and they failed my last trackday noise test so I had to put in DB killers which I do not want to do as it seems to make the engine run hotter.

    Has anyone repacked their 748 - 9** Carbon Termis and if so did you have any problems, I read once of someone on the old Ducatisti site that had big problems with the carbon cans distorting when they took them apart.

    Finally has anyone used Acousta-fil and if so how did you find it.

    Any repacking information gratefully accepted as I don't want to start something I cant finish. I have sourced potential rivets and suitable wrap, I just need some confirmation on any likely pitfalls.
     
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  2. Never done it, but think my 998 cans need doing, so an eedjits guide as you do it would be helpful and appreciated, if you don't mind.

    Cheers,

    Pete
     
  3. I used acoustafil on my 54mm cans after I found them getting noisy and the carbon sleeve scorching. Acoustafil worked great and no more scorching and producing a nice ACU friendly noise. Very easy to use, go a for a nice run after you have put the cans back on. Not messy at all, no bits of glassfibre getting everywhere. A top product at a good price.
     
  4. I have done it on Carbon Termis on 748 and 916 - it's a doddle.

    I used standard exhaust repacking mat (came in a sheet). Wrap it around the baffle tube, hold in place with masking tape (which burns off), stuff them back in.
    Easy.

    749/999 Titanium Silencer: do not attempt! I did. Nasty business.
     
  5. Agreed, the only thing I do differently is to wrap around the package with aluminium tape rather than a few strips of masking tape, this makes it easier to insert into the can as the aluminium tape can be 'formed' to the shape and won't stick to the carbon like the packaging will. It also gives another layer of heat protection for if/when the packing is blown away.
     
  6. I used a sheet of plastic damp proof membrane a bit longer than the packing........wrapped the packing around the perforated centre pipe, then tightened it up with the membrane, slid the can on, riveted the end, then slid the membrane out.

    AL
     
  7. Thanks guys some great information here, I think this should be quite straightforward by the sound of it. What rivets did you use? I was looking at 4.8mm by maybe 10mm or 12mm length, or is that too long? Shortest seems to be about 8mm.
     
  8. And thanks from me, too. Reckon that is next winter's job.
     
  9. I just came across this link which looks handy for calculating exactly how much you need, might save a few quid!

    Acousta-Fil Infill Calculator

    Just worked mine out = £25 using eBay
     
    #9 Red998, Jun 22, 2013
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2013
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  10. Just a quick update, job done. The Acousta fil was easy to use and I just about had the correct length according to the calculator. I can't say it sounds any less louder though, maybe just a little. I was a bit disappointed there.

    One thing I will never do is use stainless rivets again they were really hard to close up and I had to brace the riveter, which is a decent one, against the work bench and push really hard to get the rivet to snap off.

    The originals were gone though and the carbon was starting to burn away on one can. I notice that water leaks out of one rivet on startup which is also annoying but I hope that might stop with a bit of build up of carbon\crap etc.
     
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  11. Hi,

    First of all I would like to send you all my Best Regards from Barcelona (Catalunya).

    I want to repack my Monster 695 Titanium mufflers (they are getting too much noisy) and I've seen that in the UK you have this Acoustafill product.

    I've seen Cranker V2 post, so it seems that it works grate....

    ....but then I've seen

    RickyX comment....
    Why is it a nasty business on the Titanium silencers ??

    Shall I do it or not ??
     
  12. Hi- can I ask where you got the rivets from and what length you used in the end? I take it you'd go with std steel or alloy rivets rather than stainless?
     
  13. The original rivets are alloy but 'blind' so that they seal when pulled up. This stops the leaking that comes about from using conventional pop rivets
     
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