Hi, Steelboss, Ok on the front forks we alter the preload by turning the 17mm adjuster. I’m just looking for a starting point and then when we can ride will adjust to suit my needs, so you stated you set yours at 6mm so my question is how many turns on the adjuster did you need to achieve your desired preload? Checking my bike at the moment as just purchased it, it has 4 complete clockwise turns dialled in!
6mm is fully in clockwise and then back out 6 turns. (1turn =1mm) out of interest, depending on ability and how fast you really push the PP etc, at the end of the last riding season I ended up on fully wound in front and back. Bit bumpy when slow / town etc, but at full chat it was superb. Front comp 13clicks rebound 5clicks , Rear comp 12clicks rebound 9clicks (they’re clicks out from fully in / anti-clockwise)
These aren't complete but might help. Just need to check the rear pre-load for how many turns per mm on that nob as its a while since I set it up. I'm about 90KG fully loaded
And remember to use the snap on tools plastic adaptor for adjusting the front pre-load as the 17mm blue anodised nuts are like cheese! I ordered the set as I didn't know I could order the individual item (22-17 mm non-marring adaptor) I know its expensive for the set but believe me its worth the money 6 pc Metric Non-Marring Socket Insert Set | PSCM600 | Snap-on Store I think this is the individual item that takes away the worry and grief 1/4" and 3/8" Drive Metric 22–17 mm Non-Marring Socket Insert | PSCM2217 | Snap-on Store
I think they’re the standard manual settings. If so they’re very soft and wallowing if the bike is pushed. Get it set up professionally, best upgrade you’ll ever do. It’s all about getting ride height (sag) correct against your weight and then front and rear working in sync etc ( front preload is as I stated, 1mm per turn, not as per above 2turns per mm. 15 turns total available )
Agree they were the standard settings I was explaining. Set up starts with sag and riding style. Apologies 1mm per turn on front for pre-load. Not sure why I put that!
‘ Apologies if I’m talking nonsense but my understanding of how to set the preload is different to yours. Setting Preload looks as if you take it completely out anti-clockwise then dial in the required amount of turns to set it. (This would account for on the chart comp & rebound states clicks out and rebound turns in) The opposite applies to Comp and Rebound where you wind fully clockwise then count the clicks out and from what I see click one is zero and click two equals 1 and so on!
Help, I'm having a brain fade. If 6 mm is 6 turns out from all the way in on the front forks, surely that is 6mm sag (assuming average rider weight) rather than pre-load. My logic would be that all the way in gives no sag (max pre-load) and 6 turns out gives 6 mm sag (mx pre-load minus 6mm). So with the standard front PRELOAD settings being recommended as: Touring: 5mm Sport: 7mm Urban: 5mm Enduro Full: 10mm Rider plus passenger: 10mm So is the sport recommendation a higher ride setting than touring and urban at the front of a lower setting? My logic would tend to say a higher front setting but that would make the sport setting turn slower urghhhh
Suspension settings are a combination of not just sag (preload) but compression and rebound too. Simple answer is ignore the guide settings, let’s face it not many of us are 6 stone Italian test riders, set the suspension or get the suspension set for your weight and riding ability / style.
Think you missed my questions that I’m grappling with (although realise you don’t owe me an answer and probably my bad phrasing). Questions are 1) If you screw the pre-load hex adjusters in does it raise or lower the height of the ride at the front and 2) should a sport setting for pre/load (and hence ride height) not be lower for sport than touring settings for the front? Thanks in anticipation
Preload is preload, regardless of mode. If you use zero preload, the bike will sit lower under your mass. If you max pre load, the bike will sit higher under your mass. The ride quality in both instances will be poor. Adjusting ride height is more complicated. Time was on the 916/748/996 era, the rear shock linkage had an adjustable rod and you could drop or raise the forks in the yokes. Today, Ducati provide shorter springs and low seats. Sadly your bike falls between the two. As already suggested, find yourself a decent suspension specialist to advise you. Andy
