Diavel Clutch

Discussion in 'Newbies Hangout' started by Jonc, Dec 1, 2021.

  1. Has anyone still got problems finding neutral, when I bought my diavel the clutch lever would be 25mm away from the bars at full pull...and I couldn't find neutral at all unless the engine was stopped. If anyone is interested I will tell how I fixed mine,
     
  2. Hello and welcome.:)
     
  3. Welcome. Which generation/model Diavel?
     
  4. Hi, mine is a 2018 dark stealth model
     
  5. Has it got aftermarket levers fitted? Or has the clutch lever been fiddled with? If so they need adjustment by someone who knows what to do.
     
  6. It is always interesting to know how different issues are overcome. How did you fix the problem?
     
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  7. Hi, ok this is my way. I removed the clutch cover and when I pulled the lever in there was no movement in the clutch plates so that was the problem in not finding neutral... So then I realized that the clutch springs were bottoming out, and that's why the clutch lever would be 25mm away from the bars,. So then I unscrewed the 4 pressure plate bolts 3 turns out. And that cured the problem, the clutch lever touched the bars and I had movement in the clutch plates...so then I machined 4 spacers 2.5mm thick and I think the ID was 6mm,. The OD has to be the same size as the tube that the clutch Spring slides over i think 12mm So basically I was lengthening the bolts by 2.5mm, the clutch lever is now soft and smooth and I can find neutral even when cold. I did this 9 months ago and 4k miles with absolutely no issues .... ENJOY.....
     
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  8. Useful.
    Have you had the bike from new?
    Sounds to me like someone else had 'fiddled' around with the clutch in the past as it certainly didn't leave the factory like that.

    Was the bike like this when you bought it but you thought 'aha, I can fix this' or did the issue just develop over time?

    I'm just curious as to how these situations arise.
     
  9. Hi, the bike had done 1300mls when I bought it. And the casing had 2 blobs of yellow paint on 2 studs, so never been off... the bike has no modifications whatsoever. I have spoken to Ducati owners with this problem, but when I explained what I had done I could see on their faces that they did not grasp what I was saying....also Ducati owners who have had the problem, have fitted larger bore slave cylinders and have forced the pressure plate out passed the limit...I can see problems arising for these poor Ducati clutches
     
  10. So did the issue develop over time or was it like that when you bought the bike?

    Also, the fitting of a larger bore slave cylinder doesn’t cause the pressure plate to be lifted any further, that’s a function of the length of the pushrod, the larger bore slave reduces the amount of effort required to actuate the pushrod.
     
  11. I assume it's a hydraulic clutch? If so on other Ducati models I have owned this usually means the clutch needs bleeding as there's air in the line.
     
  12. Exactly.... People use larger bore cylinders for a softer pull, you've just answered my find. My clutch is so easy& smooth with standard slave cylinder after this small mod......
     
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  14. @Jonc I’m struggling to get my head around what your issue was and how what you’ve done has fixed it. Clearly, it has so I’m not disputing that, just trying to understand it.

    Your initial problem was impossibility to e gave neutral (clutch drag) and a clutch lever that would stop 25mm short of the handlebar.

    If I understand correctly you’ve now reduced the degree to which the springs can be compressed by the collar and retaining bolts by 2.5mm which means the pressure plate will not be exerting as much pressure on the clutch plate pack - hence reduced drag and easier to engage neutral. However, do you not now experience any clutch slip under max acceleration ?
     
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  15. Hi Paul, I've lengthened the clutch studs by 2.5mm. so now the clutch springs don't bottom out, so I'm giving the clutch pushrod 2.5mm longer travel. When I give it full blat in third gear, in sport mode the front wheel comes up. So no clutch slip...... I would be happy to talk to you and explain.
     
    #15 Jonc, Dec 8, 2021
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 8, 2021
  16. I’ve taken out your mobile phone number from the post for security reasons.

    You can, of course, PM your number privately to him if you want :)
     
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  17. Ok, sorry I didn't realize
     
  18. Your clutch operation was “coil bound” by the sound of it, and this can happen when people fit one or a combination of aftermarket parts with slightly different dimensions to OEM , the most usual villain being solely fitting aftermarket coil springs, often the stainless steel variety that might use a different wire diameter or greater number of coils for example. If you feel certain that this happened on a motorbike that has 100% original equipment parts, then this needs investigating thoroughly of course, but it’s worth carefully checking to make sure that this really is the case.
     
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  19. Hi Chris,. I totally agree with you, my springs bottomed out or were coil bound before I had the correct pushrod travel to release or had movement of the plates in the clutch basket..... but where would it get me if I challenged Ducati or Audi... Take care Chris....
     
  20. Hi Jon
    The main thing is that you've fixed it, and clutch is working to your taste. Getting to the bottom of how it came to be like that when you got it is secondary really, it could be worth looking into but could also be a bit laborious.
     
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