The other small thing I've sorted, which is actually quite important to me, is the cracked Instrument screen which looks like something was dropped on it: I really didn't want to spend the £250 most want on EBAY for a used dash just to replace the front. One seller currently has a quite broken dash assembly on Ebay with a good front panel, but he still wants £100, so I decided to have a go at a repair. The front moulding just pops off, and I was hoping the clear screen was just glued in, but fair play to Ducati it had been done properly. A two stage moulding, where the clear screen is moulded with tangs around the outside, it's then placed in the mould tool for the front panel and the Black is injected in around it, effectively making them one piece. A small Ball Pein hammer through the front removed most of it, and I then carefully filled out the rest: I then cut down a small off-cut of a clear plastic we use at work and filed it carefully to fit snugly in the hole. We use this polycarbonate as the front panel for Military touch screens, and it has a hardcoat on one side to resist scratching. I superglued the screen in with my superglue of choice for plastics - Gorilla Gel superglue. It seams to bond plastics far better than any other superglue, including the normal Gorilla stuff. I was tipped off to it on a boat forum I use. The result isn't perfect, but looks far better now it's back together:
The other job I've sorted is the front brake hoses - well nearly. The polite phrase would be "What a Palava". The 1098 Forks and Radial Calipers, not sure exactly what off, give a spec for the hoses which should be as close as damn it the same as a 999R, so you'd think it would be easy. I also prefer twin hoses from Master Cylinder down to the Calipers to make bleeding easier. The twin hose is normally referred to as Race spec . The plastic hose guide that fits around the Right Hand Side fork just above the bottom yoke was missing, so I ordered a New Old Stock one from Ebay. Stage 1 - Order a set of twin Hose Pre-Made 999R Venhill Hoses from an online supplier, I won't say who. They turned up with two straight end fittings and two 20deg bent fittings, which isn't right at all but I tried fitting them anyway. Despite the incorrect fittings the hoses were so long that when fitted with the forks at full extension the hoses were only about an inch from the front face of the Radiator. Any dip in the suspension would have them touch the Rad. They went back. Stage 2 - Order a set of twin Hose Pre-Made 999R Hel Hoses from an online supplier, again I won't say who. They turned up with the correct end fittings, but again the hoses were far too long. But not as long as the Venhill ones. Again they went back. Stage 3 - I looked at images online of 999R brake hoses, measured up what I needed myself and ordered the component parts direct from the Venhill website. I used their Powerhose Plus System for flexibility: https://www.venhill.co.uk/hydraulic-lines-amp-fittings/powerhose-plus-lines-and-fittings.html So now they are fitted, are a good length, and allow full steering lock without touching the headlight assembly: However, whilst fitting them I've realised that despite ordering Stainless everything, I've been sent Chrome plated steel Banjo bolts with bleed nipples for the Caliper ends. So they will have to go back.
No hope of being finished by Xmas I'm afraid. And we don't do pressies of any value. I have some big lumps of money to spend soon and will need to spread those over several months in the new year. Tyres Chain and Sprockets Bodywork. But in the mean time I have some more painting to do of brackets etc, and am going to gut the standard silencer whilst carrying on looking out for a cheap aftermarket one.
Looks great! Planning on doing the same thing for my 999R. Do you still have the measurements so I can save time measuring myself?
Of course, they are ingrained in my head at the moment. Two 90Deg M10 End fittings - Caliper ends. Two 45Deg M10 End fittings - Master Cylinder end. One 525mm Hose - RHS Caliper One 550mm Hose - LHS Caliper. Two M10 Bleed Nipple Banjo Bolts for Caliper ends One M10 Double Banjo Bolt for M/C end. 7 M10 Copper Washers. Of course the sizes above are I believe what you'd need for a 999R, because I believe the 1098 Forks and the Calipers I've used replicate the positions of the Banjo Bolts on a 999R, but I can't fully guarantee that. Take care with the Double Banjo bolt. I didn't mention that it bottomed out in the Master Cylinder before clamping the End fittings, so I took a couple of mm off the end in my lathe. I'm sure an additional Copper washer in there somewhere would sort it instead. Oh, and the same Banjo is too close to the fork to do up, so is a bit of a fiddle. I tightened it enough to just be able to spin the end fittings with the M/C off the bike, fitted it to the bike, positioned them, then took it off to tighten the Banjo up. As I said a bit of a fiddle. Good luck.
Thank you! Have 1098 forks and calipers on my bike as well. Not a fan of the standard single hose setup to the MC so I'll probably go the same way as you did. Fitting new RCS Corsa Corta MC at the same time though. Have access to a lathe if needed so shouldn't have any problems making it work.
The calipers you have are standard 749R/999R. I am really surprised that you didn’t get a plug and play result from HEL lines. I have twin HEL lines on my R and they fitted an absolute treat out of the box. I will take a look tomorrow but don’t recall them having 90 deg end fittings at the caliper end.
Regarding the double banjo being inaccessible due to proximity of fork leg - I positioned mine and nipped up with an open ended spanner, then undid the brake clamp bolts and slid the whole m/cyl outboard. This allowed full access to head of banjo for torquing. Then slid it all back and checked all kushti.
Well, my recollection was half wrong (and half right)… Trackbike has double HEL lines that I installed - 90 deg banjo fittings at caliper: Roadbike has single line, split at yoke and around the outside twin lines - straight banjo (these were on it when I bought it): Well I never.
Anyone recognise the origins of the contents of a large box that arrived with Pat a short while ago? It was a 'Right Time Right place' Ebay buy, as I found it minutes after it had been put up as Buy it now for £35 inc postage. The paint is good in the places it would need to be if I was using it on a Black bike, and may even make me consider that route, but for the price it's a good start for a repaint or wrap.
Sev I actually didn't realise the FILA offer was for nothing What a chap! They would be a great option to get get painted or wrapped and will take you up on it. The Black tail unit can go back on Ebay to help fund the work. Will pop up to see you Very soon.
I managed to have a better look at the tail piece a couple of days ago. I'm going to keep it for the time being as an option, as it appears to have been designed to fit the Biposto subframe and would save me converting my existing subframe or sourcing a Monoposto one. It didn't actually fit very well, standing up a bit too high at the rear, but with a bit of fettling it now sits down low enough that I'm happy I could make it fit really well with just a little more work. It's obviously a little longer than a standard Monoposto tailpiece, but actually covers the exhaust quite nicely. As I said, it's staying with me for a while as an option.
May I say, in my opinion, those D16 fake tails look a bit naff. Original svelte shape is so much more in keeping with the design of the bike.
And then yesterday I introduced the standard silencer to my friend Mr Bosch the Angle Grinder: I then welded in some perforated tube. I know the outlet is smaller than the inlet, but I was quite keen to keep the outside looking stock, but with a more fitting, more Ducati like, soundtrack. I wrapped the tube with Mat type Exhaust wadding, a type I found is available now that with a little heat breaks down the threads and expands into the space available: Then I packed a load of loose wadding in the gaps: I then spent a VERY frustrating couple of hours today servicing my ancient MIG set trying to improve the consistency of the wire feed and current so I can get some good looking welds when I pop the top back on. But it's having none of it. I purchased a Brand new TIG set last year from a well known manufacturer with a good reputation, which only lasted a very short while before having to go back for repair, and now after many months the supplier has finally agreed to refund me as they just can't get a spare PCB from the manufacturer. So when I get that refund I'll be buying another TIG set and may finally be able to retire the MIG.
Thanks RickyX, I do understand where you are coming from. But as it fits I do need to keep it as an option until I know where I'm going long term.
It actually looks like the seat unit previously discussed is carbon: The top coats of paint are coming off like big blisters in places, down to a Black layer that's not adhering to the clear resin very well either. The Black layer clearly isn't very compatible with the paint or the resin. So at the moment I have to options to hold on to until I have a clear direction to go forward with. The Carbon MonoPosto that I've got to fit the Biposto subframe, but would need a lot of work to make look half decent. Or the standard Biposto tail with a cheapo cover I picked up to replace the pillion pad. This would need a respray to the right Red, and a small amount of a tidy up, but would give me a small key assessible recess to carry stuff. Or I could go down a completely different route using Sevs kind offer.
It runs – Yay. Thought I’d try and start the engine today for the first time since doing the belts, replacing the Cam cover Oil seals and everything else covered in this thread. So filled the coolant system, put some fresh Air filters in and bolted on the inlet tubes. It wouldn’t even turn over as the battery was showing 10.9V. I put the battery on charge for about an hour, flicked on the ignition and it said 11.9V, so thought why not try. It started immediately and settled to a fast idle using the lever. There are no nasty engine noises, my quiet clutch mod means there is no noise from the clutch until the lever is pulled in, and the cored exhaust sounds nice, rumbly but not too loud. I left it ticking over to warm up whilst I went around the engine looking for oil and coolant leaks. There is a small drip from the Oil line Banjo bolt on the RHS of the engine, so I’ll need to get a new Copper washer. At the moment I can’t see any Coolant leaks. It doesn’t sound ‘Slappy’ or harsh at all. And now for the bad news. With the engine running the battery voltage didn’t increase, and I was about to get my multimeter out to put across the terminals when the check engine light came on. I’m hoping it’s down to the voltage being so low, but I think the battery is completely buggered, so I’ll get a new one. The engine appeared to warm up really quickly, the tem gauge showing 65deg in @a minute and a half of idling. I must sort out my JP Diag License that ChrisW has kindly helped me with. Unlike my M1000 and 1000SS JP Diag requires a licence for the 999. Does the Engine light always need turning off with software on these? Or will it go out by itself if I find the problem?
