Jpdiag Why Do I Struggle?

I really don’t know why I find JPDiag so difficult to get to work, and the dedicated forum doesn’t help as when it’s actually up and running every answer appears to assume an above average level of understanding with regard to Computers etc.
ChrisW on here is a great help, and very patient, but I feel guilty about repeatedly asking for help.

I’m no idiot, Luddite, or technophobe.
I’m more than happy amending CCF files, carrying out service functions and fault finding using similar software for my far more complicated CANBUS Land Rovers and Outboard engines, and I’m really happy mucking about with maps in the Power Commanders on my 1000SS and M1000s.
But JPDiag I think just frustrates me.

I should add at this point that I do understand this software is completely Free of Charge, as is all the support from the original programmer and ChrisW, so I can’t moan too much.
But I do need help.

The Belt tension function when used with a small USB Mic is fantastic, but doesn’t involve actually connecting to the bikes ECU which is where I struggle.

I have the software on two different Laptops, and have the suggested USB to OBD and OBD to 3pin Superseal adaptor cables.
The adaptor cable has Croc clips to connect to the bikes 12V supply.
Red to Battery +ve
Black to Chassis/Ground/Earth – not Battery -ve.

This is what the ‘Front page’ looks like:





My M1000 and 1000SS use an IAW5AM ECU so are set to Slow init
My 999 being 2005 has an IAW59M ECU so needs Fast Init

The IAW59M ECU also requires a licence which ChrisW kindly sorted out for me and it’s now in the same folder on both laptops as the exe file.

I have found Com 6 is the only one that’s ever worked when connecting to the 1000SS and M1000.

Using the setup above I have in the past connected to the ECU on both my 1000SS and M1000 using both Laptops, and to be fair once connected it’s easy and intuitive to use, but connecting is a different matter.

 

I have never managed to connect to the 1000SS and M1000 ECUs using the recommended method:
Plug Cables in to Laptop and Bike.
Open JPDiag software.
Turn the bike ignition on
Press the Connect button

From one of the many posts on the JPDiag forum about connection issues I saw the below suggested if the above doesn’t work.
Plug Cables in to Laptop and Bike.
Open JPDiag software.
Press the Connect button
Wait @10seconds then turn the bike ignition on
Give the software @1 minute to connect.

In the past it always took 3 or 4 attempts to connect to the ECU on either bike, mainly using the second procedure having given up trying the recommended one.

 

Yesterday I thought I’d have a go at connecting to my 999 to clear the EML and read any stored codes.

I made sure the License file was in the same folder as the JPDiag exe file on the first Laptop and plugged the cables in.
Com set to 6, and the fast init selected.



Turned on the bike ignition waited a few seconds for the Bike to boot up then clicked Connect.

The bar under the Connect Button went green and the connecting message appeared to the right of the init selection.

This was initially good news as from past experience if the software can’t see the ECU you don’t get a Green bar and an error message appears in place of the connecting message.

I tried this several times waiting probably 2 minutes each time and didn’t get a connection, so also tried hitting the connect button then turning the ignition on several times. Again I couldn’t get a connection.

I tried the other Laptop in the house with the software on with the same negative result.

I tried uninstalling the software on both laptops, reinstalling it and trying again.

I tried removing the license file from the folder on both laptops

Getting nowhere I decided to try connecting to my 1000SS and couldn’t connect by either procedure.
Which as above has been possible – but difficult in the past.

Thinking the License may be stopping the connection to the older ECU I removed it from the folder and still couldn’t connect.

I moved to my M1000 and couldn’t connect to that either.

All three bikes have charged batteries and run through their normal start up routines when the ignition is turned on.

I must be doing something daft, but am now at a loss.

Can anyone suggest what I’m doing wrong?

Is there anyone local with the software and leads that could come and try to connect to the bikes to see if we can eliminate my Laptops and/or leads?

 

Thank you all

ChrisW, is there an easy way to establish if my cables are FTDI or WinChipHead?

I'm working on my Desktop at the moment, not either laptop, but when I open Device manager the Com port is not specified:



My laptop may be different of course, or an I misunderstanding where to look?

 

I have the Lonelec cables, and a quick look on their website and download of the drivers appears to suggest they are FTDI:

 

RTD you're a star.
I wouldn't have thought to look for hidden devices.

So on my Desktop it's COM3.

I'll have a look on the Laptops in a bit.
Although as I posted earlier, 6 has always been the only one that ever got me a connection before.

 

Just had a look at both Laptops but without the cable plugged in.

One is showing as COM3, which is strange as I was 100% sure it previously connected allocated as COM6.
I can't get near the bike or cables until tomorrow now because of work, but will look at device manager again with the cable plugged in and try to connect to the ECU with it changed to COM3.

The other (much older Windows XP) laptop doesn't show any COM ports, I tried plugging a USB stick in and despite being able to move files across it still didn't allocate a COM port to it that I could see.
Again I'll try again with the cables plugged in tomorrow.
But again I'm 100% sure it previously connected allocated as COM6 because it was still set to that when I opened it.

I'm assuming the Laptop will only see the Cable and display a COM port if the cable is powered up from the bike battery.
Could it make any difference if I connected the cable to a separate battery, not the bike one?
I noticed that if I plug the cable in to the bike then connect the battery Crocs, the indicator LED on the OBD connectors illuminates when just the +ve Croc is connected before the -ve Croc is connected.

 

Yes, that's exactly how it feels with anything to do with JPDiag.
I think it's because it's not mass market, and is mostly supported by Electronics enthusiasts who sometimes don't realise that the rest of us aren't as knowledgeable about what they consider just everyday terms and processes.

An analogy would be me rebuilding an engine, and being really interested in fully understanding the process of measuring and working out what thickness shims to use on the crank and gearbox shafts, taking into account Thermal expansion etc, and why it's all so important.
Whereas a lot of people want to have a go at rebuilding the engine, but just want to be told what shims to buy.

As mentioned I'm more than happy changing parameters in the CCF file for my Discovery, which should be far more complicated, but with that you simply plug into the OBD port, open the software and off you go.