Currently doing a 916 project (I say “doing” - it’s now with a technician cos I felt I’d collided with the end of my talent!) Just after any recommendations for mods that we should do while we’re at it, eg uprated starter leads. Trying to stick to keeping it standard but anything that makes it easier to live with from a reliability point of view would be great from those with experience. Cheers in anticipation Al
A few items off the top of my head after 25 years of riding - 45,000 miles on a '97 Bip followed by 40,000 on a '98 SPS. Wiring from alternator to reg/rec. Replace OE reg/rec. Replace Clutch slave cylinder with later or aftermarket item if it is a 97 or older. Hopefully the original rubber brake hoses have been replaced by braided steel ones by now. Battery - Solenoid - Starter Motor leads as mentioned. Suspension service? Replace Cush drive rubbers if they are old or original.
Thanks, that’s greatly appreciated. The shock is brand new and forks are off a later model due to cosmetics of the originals but we’re rebuilding them. As for the rest f your list, I’ll get on it QUOTE="98 SPS, post: 1938312, member: 114"]A few items off the top of my head after 25 years of riding - 45,000 miles on a '97 Bip followed by 40,000 on a '98 SPS. Wiring from alternator to reg/rec. Replace OE reg/rec. Replace Clutch slave cylinder with later or aftermarket item if it is a 97 or older. Hopefully the original rubber brake hoses have been replaced by braided steel ones by now. Battery - Solenoid - Starter Motor leads as mentioned. Suspension service? Replace Cush drive rubbers if they are old or original.[/QUOTE]
- Replace regulator: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/regulator-rectifier-soloution.21726/ - starter leads. - Replace in-tank fuel lines. Due to age they perish. They alway go on times….well murphy's law. There’s plenty more, but id start with this.
How relevant are the needs for these mods to a 2000 996? I think the reg/rec thing is still an issue.
2000 996 will be a 3 phase alternator, I don't think the reg / rec is as prone to failure as that is usually down to overheating caused by corrosion at the wiring connections from the two under-sized wires from the single phase alternator on earlier models. But I may be wrong as I have not owned one newer than my '98.
All good stuff guys, I’ve added these items to my (long) list. Seems most recommended mods are electrical - no real surprise, with the exception of slave cylinder - Any other areas??
Some people had issues with the coolant header tank leaking although I never had that problem on 748 and 916. Sprag clutch can be iffy. Keep battery in good condition and should be ok. Greasing of swing arm spindle - spindle can be a pig to remove. I tried on both mine and failed so gave up with the idea. Rear brake is crap but who cares? Bleed it for MOT by removing caliper and sitting it on the top side of disc. Headlight lens fogging - again, never had the problem but many people did. Clutches…I believe there is a Masters Degree Course available from Loughborough Uni… Instrument faces can crack ( especially temp gauge), various rebuild solutions available by searching on here.
While replacing the fuel lines, as suggested above, I would definitely change out the plastic connectors for metal ones. I went through numerous, four if memory serves, coolant over flow tanks before switching out for a metal tank in a fit of frustrated exasperation!
I’m probably gonna go for a lithium battery with uprated starter leads. All spindles/mounting bolts and fasteners have been cleaned and dipped so once greased should be good for years again. My H/L fogged - I just cleaned it out with a home made long cleaning tool. How do you stop it coming back??? New clutch going in with engine rebuild. As for the temp gauge- had a new bezel and glass made - I don’t think the tech wants a full time job making them though! Very happy with how that’s turned out
Yes. A number of years ago a forum member on Ducati.ms went through the trouble to have one designed and fabricated and he sold the end result to forum members for a very reasonable $120 usd. Moto Wheels had a very similar product available for awhile, not sure if it still is or not.
Fuel level sponsor nut, swap for aluminium. They can split and like the plastic connectors mentioned above, you can end up with fuel pissing out
Not just the cush drive rubbers but also the sprocket carrier - get the Renthal version that has the 'lips' to stop the cush drives backing out. I had a cush drive 'pop' and it ground away the eccentric adjuster on the hub for the wheel adjustment. Added bonus is the sprockets are then quick change and cheaper to replace. Whilst doing the above, check if it still has the old style sprocket hub with the big circlip and, if so replace it with the later 998 model that uses a spacer because if/when the circlip groove wears the same thing will happen to your eccentric.
Something that has not been mentioned is throttle spindles. There are no proper bushes in the bodies and if there is any wear, the spindles will have some movement. This results in the likelyhood that one throttle can start opening before the other and its difficult to tune out with the link rod. The best answer in my opinion? Machine the bodies and fit Oilite bushes and replace the plastic rod ends on the link shaft with proper rod ends (rose joints). In any case, do the rod end conversion - very cheap and easy. Good luck with it. You will have a great bike.
