Chaps, I managed to snap 2 studs removing the front header to fit a Termi system, I think there’s enough thread to get a nut and lock nut on which hopefully will allow me to spin the studs out, my question is, will heating the stud before I extract it loosen it, or does it need to be hot while I wind it out (it seems to me that the hot stud would be expanded and more difficult to remove, but pre-heating might break any bonding in the head? What do ya reckon?
Hot while you loosen it always where possible with this scenario. Depends what heat your applying and how hot you plan to heat it, but I always have two or 3 cycles where I heat it up and then douse with WD40/GT85 etc penetrant, let it cool down, repeat and then finally carefully attempt removal on last heating.
Pre heating will be of benefit. Steel and aluminium expand at different rates, aluminium more than steel. Andy
Pre heat and and extractor/puller. I don't recall the diameter (M5, maybe?), but I remember that I had to go 1 size smaller after the thread collapsed. This was the only problem I had with the one I had to pull out, but if you need I'd suggest to weld a nut on it
Thanks chaps would you fit OEM studs or is there a better option (the two that snapped catch all the crap off the front wheel)
Exhaust studs are a common issue for Ducati. I had a similar experience to you and decided to go down the route of fitting thread inserts. Not had an opportunity yet to see if that has made any difference. I do remember someone saying, always use copper nuts. Andy
Heat as Chris describes. I use plus gas to spray up between heatings only because it has a little Moly in it as an anti seize. Go slow to go faster. No rush and good fitting tools. OEM studs always my preferred option, batch tested. Beware of stainless studs on offer, some are made of 304 stainless toffee.316 from reputable company with traceability if you want the look!
The trouble with penetrating oil is that the stud is pretty much vertical so it’s difficult to soak, do you think a propane blow torch generate enough heat?
Penetrating oil will penetrate.Spray and leave over night. It will get in there. Propane blow torch with a fine nozzle.
If by any unfortunate chance it breaks off flush, try a left handed drill. Runs backwards, sometimes the heat generated combined with the thinning of the wall. The stud turns out. I think I got mine in flea bay.
I have a 2013 reg 1200 MTS and I had to remove the front stud nuts to get the oem pipe work off. The nuts were corroded onto the studs and the studs themselves were rotted and two snapped off. I ordered oem studs and new oem nuts from motor cycle spare parts dot eu and when they arrived, I sorted the issue. I took my time, flattening the stuck remains of the old stud and center punched......then used the smallest drill bit first and slowly working my way up to a bit just a slight bit smaller than the stud diameter, then used a tap and it cleared the threads nicely and the new studs went in perfectly. I think patience is the order of the day......
Always assume a stud is going to snap. Spray the nut with a penetrating oil leave it, spray again couple of hours later before trying to undo. Can of plus gas in the garage can save a lot of time. Slow down go faster. Patience is a virtue!
I sheered enough of the rusty buggers, even following my guide lines as taught. I have a set of cobalt drills and screw extractors. Freeze spray and a fine blow torch. Belt and braces
Chaps, just to update, I took the bike to a local mechanic, they used the method recommended by the Ducati dealer who I bought new studs from, which was: Heat the head (not the stud) with a heat gun, they then used one of these to remove the stud https://shop.snapon.com/product/Pow...ower-Fastener-Extractor-Set-(Blue-Point)/BET7 A couple of hours labour, money much better spent than me snapping the studs flush!
Copper flashed nuts. They do not seize on or trap muck, wash out anti seize.. Usually M8 or M10 described as manifold nuts. High tensile nuts copper plated very thin. Generally used and changed whenever manifolds or headers changed. Cost pennies. I have two packs of 50 somewhere. Should be available on line or old fashioned motor factors. I would never recommend stainless or titanium on manifold studs or nuts. Not fit for purpose and a vanity accessory.
I will certainly take your advice next time I changing my studs. Which will be in the next month. I'll let you know how I get on finding these copper flashed types. I don't think people switch to Stainless for vanity though. They just don't want to find rusted up threads, so change unknowing that there could be a problem later.
