Hi, looking for a bit of help here again, I need to remove the rear shock for a service and new spring, the bottom bolt is recessed quite deep in the swing arm and so to avoid any risk of killing it I bought a long reach Snap On 8mm Allen socket, It broke!! sheared off.. I got the broken bit out and the socket head looks ok, bolt has most likely been is there all its life, I can't see a way of getting any heat on it, I have been spraying WD40 in the approx direction but don't really know if its doing any good. Picking up my replacement socket tomorrow, any ideas that might help shift this.. Thanks..
An ordinary allen socket (short length) should go through the access hole with less chance of it snapping. If you do damage the bolt head you will need to remove the arm and have it drilled out.... If its anything like an 1198 wait till you actually try and get the shock out
Thanks guys,, ill try a shorter Snap On bit, just been looking again and if I grind literally .5mm off ill get it through the hole in the arm, iv soaked it up again with WD40, see what happens tomorrow.
Hi, so still attempting to get this bolt out, bike is lying on its side so hopefully the penetrating oil is soaking the thread end that I cannot actually see, it may just be going inside the swing arm somewhere, who knows. Im going out to it every few hours and beating the whatnots out of the bolt head to hopefully do something. Twisted another Snap On hex, Iv ordered the super short stumpy one now so there is nothing to twist, when that arrives it will be last ditch attempt as the head of the bolt won't take much more..
If you can't get a stumpy one, cut a longer one down so it's just longer than the depth of the bolt head
Metric snap on Allen sockets have always been a bit rubbish. I have a lot of snap on tools but for allen sockets I prefer Stahlwille. Much more durable.
Or even Halfords Advance. WD40 isn’t the best penetrant in the world for something like this. The best is a 50/50 mix of diesel and acetone but failing that, a product called Transyl from Owatrol has never let me down. The most important bit is time and patience. Apply morning & evening over a period of several days. Also, as @Sev says buy yourself a rattle gun. In fact on older bikes where some things have not been undone for 10, 20, 30 years or longer these are the two best tools in the tool box
This is a fine idea. I bought a cheapo mains powered one from an Aldi/Lidl middle aisle and it proved invaluable for the 4 or 5 times I have used it.
As with many things nowadays, stuff is designed as much for production (costs) & aesthetics as for anything else. It is good to see mind, that Ducati have maintained their tradition of combining both fine & abysmal engineering in a single product.
Because if it is ....it seems like it is a bolt with a long hex head where the head is a deliberate snug fit in the aluminium bore. I think I've got this correct from other threads here on the forum. Derek had problems but sorted it.
So I was thinking ....and this is just an idea ..... The problem is dissimilar metal corrosion where the ally oxidises freezing the head in place. Would it be an idea to try to dissolve the oxidation ? ... Now ...this is only an idea .. I have used a mortar and brick cleaning acid to remove corrosion and oxidation on steel and badly corroded wheels before and it is very effective....however it is nasty stuff ...have also fizzed away limescale with it when refurbing Mira shower valves. Could you lean the bike over so you could inject some acid into the bore hole ? ....if the acid is drawn into the bore it may fizz away the oxidation. ....this is me thinking aloud ....the acid can be neutralised with water after a short time. Would this make the situation worse if unsuccessful ? Just throwing an idea out there ...only do this if you think it's safe....the acid is nasty. . Derek cut the bolt either side of the bottom shock bearing in the end ...
Also in my experience shocking fasteners is better than long breaker bars .....hence me owning a couple of impact wrench/drivers. However this could snap off an Allen hex bit.
I have the parkside mains impact wrench ....this has removed the notorious hub...sprocket and rear wheel nuts on the multi ....no problems ......none .....
You would have to remove any fluids ...oil ...penatrants. From the bore hole with brake cleaner first .....as these would stop the acid getting to the oxidation.. This is an idea folks. Please post up if you think this should not be tried.
Good idea, but Aluminium oxide (have to assume that's what's happened 'grown') is amphoteric so the results could be a little unpredictable... Wiki info:
It’s a bit of a stubborn b**tard then isn’t it . I had a bike (Triumph Sprint ST) in recently for a new chain & sprockets, turned out he didn’t need either, but he couldn’t adjust the chain hence he thought he did. The brake carrier (steel) had welded itself to the SSSA (alli alloy) so the eccentric adjuster was seized solid. It took 4 days of soaking and brute force to get it off.
Thanks for your input guys, Iv sealed the hole in the bottom of the swing arm so I can fill around the stuck bolt with diesel, Iv borrowed a 1/2 drive windy gun. Iv also bought a new rear shock that I can send away for service while I sort this bolt out..
