I was talking to a lad who I bought some PP wheels off yesterday and ending up discussing rear brakes. He said that on his monster and V4 street fighters back break was shit and in the end it turned out to be that the crimping around the banjo was shit and allowed air in to the system. Ducati found out the problem and rectified it on bikes that were complained about so could be the problem with the multis as they seem to work well after having been bleed but then go to shit ??
I'm interested to find out as well, just put my Multi in for its service and I have asked them to check the rear brake, tbf the pads look worn but by christ the rear brake is very poor, I was hoping mine was just new pads if they need them???
So many posts about crap rear brakes. I'm only an occasional rear brake user but there must be a little something different about the Hyper 'cos it works perfectly! Surely it's just a smaller-scale Multi. Don't know.
I fitted one of these (this says it's for a Honda but also fits a Multistrada), made a huge difference as you could actually apply pressure to the rear brake. You don't really need the off road extender part though. https://www.altrider.eu/altrider-du...-and-crf1100l-africa-twin-adv-sports/pid/1962 Pretty sure you can buy similar Chinese copies My rear brake has been OK ever since I got the bike 8,000 miles ago, but this made all the difference...
A problem with the crimp letting air in would more likely let fluid escape under pressure, which would be pretty obvious, and the reservoir level would drop quickly. I wouldn't be listening to him.
I was under the impression it’s been the location of the master cylinder being so close to a high heat source, MV’s and Aprilia’s suffer the same problem, it’s an Italian thing, form over function
My 2010 S had a rubbish rear brake, but the 2017 Enduro one is pretty good. I think it is down to the caliper positioning, it being upright (bleed valve on top) with the working one and upside down on the other?
Every single ducati I have ever owned had a useless rear brake. The only solution is to remove the whole assembly to bleed, so you can hang it to let the air rise.
On pervious V twin multis the rear was never that good (the 1260 rear was the best of the bunch) but I did find that regular cleaning of the rear disc and pads made a significant difference albeit only temporary until the next clean. The V4 rear brake is very good .
The rear brake on my 1200s monster is non existent where as the rear break on my 25 year old 900ss is spot on Go figure as our American cousins would say.
Not necessarily true. Glycol polymer molecules are massively bigger than any component of air so under the right conditions , it is feasible you could get air going in and no fluid coming out, no matter what pressure the brake generates. I am not saying that is what is happening. Just that is is possible.
Which is alright as a theory but mine works perfectly, always has done, I still have the cat fitted and run normal dot4 fluid, nothing fancy,36K miles with zero issues
Mine was non existent when I bought the bike about 3 years ago. Bled it then and it's done on the annual service. Works perfectly, everytime, all the time. Can't believe people haven't sorted this out with all the threads covering the issue.
I can’t recall the the last time I used a rear brake on my road bikes, only time has been flat track racing.
