Been to look at a 98' 916 BP today, a few pointers as to what to look for would be welcome please, going to see it again tomorrow before i commit. The bike is in reasonable condition but not perfect... Good bits; Paintwork on tank and panels is unmarked and looks really good, mileage is quite low at 15K miles, its a Uk bike with comprehensive history including valve clearances done recently, the guy struck it up from cold and it started and idled nicely. Not so good; Paint is slightly bubbling on parts of the frame tubes, the cases look like they've been touched up with silver paint at some time, the rear shock looks like its seen better days, the wheels have a couple of marks, and its still on its original stock silencers which look a bit tatty. I'm not too bothered about the cosmetics TBH and its at what i consider to be a fair price - anything specific i should be asking about or looking for would be greatly appreciated - i've had 999/1198 etc and always wanted a 916 from when i was young but don't know much about them.
My recent experience with painters is that they charge alot of money so be prepared, cambelts and a oil change at a dealer will cost many hundreds of pounds so that's a consideration when you buy. Also old tyres and other consumables cost extra money.
Original condition is probably better, because it's honest. But it's 24 years old ,so it's pretty hard to find Original ones. But to me, new paintwork is wouldn't put me off. I was lucky enough to find an Original 996 from a forum member, in beautiful condition. Sent it to Neil at cornerspeed for a belt and fluid service. He gave it the thumbs up ,so I couldn't be happier. Cream revenge on here was selling a nice looking 996, unless it was specifically a 916 yo wanted
Looks pretty original. If it starts easy and spins over on starter ok that’s good. As is valve check as no doubt would have checked rockers too. Diffitk spot in your pic but the screen screws look aftermarket. They are expensive (c£6 each) if you want original. I can’t tell about the lower fairing screws but same applies. Dzus fasteners are also too difficult to see if original. If not, you can’t get them new with the right zinc plating. They now come in bright silver only. All minor points of course. It is missing it’s rear footrests which with a rear seat on is an mot fail I believe. Other than that it looks great so if the price is right, enjoy.
Get the seller to take the side fairings off too so you can get a good look at general condition. It’s a real quick job. You can then see if it has upgraded earth and starter cables which are a must. Also check radiator condition etc.
I’m a bit worried. If the tank and panels are flawless but frame, engine, rear shock and wheels seem better days, paint flaking on frame…I would walk away. It ticks a lot of boxes of a ex track bike. 15k frame should be flawless….
Yeah, i had thought about this, but i'm not forgetting its a 24 year old bike , and i do know of a few mates bikes from the same era - a 750ss and superlight - whose frames and engines are also flaking badly and their bikes ain't been nowhere near a track.
Frame and wheels look ok in picture - couple of small marks nothing to worry about. Rear shock likely to take a pasting as no hugger fitted. Not a big issue. Engine paint “ they all do that sir”. I would not sweat it.
Disagree on the points on the frame above - these frames love to rust given the slightest sniff of British air. My friend has a bike with 6k on the clock that lived in a barn for a while, frame on that has lots of rust showing. In fact I’ve not seen one yet, even otherwise mint bikes, that didn’t have some browning going on in the frame holes. The age related wear you describe wouldn’t put me off at all. But like the other advice above, pop the fairings off and take a look underneath. Unlikely to be mint given the rest of it but at least you know what you’re dealing with. How handy are you with a spanner? These bikes are unfeasibly easy to work on and you can do most things yourself without too much trouble. Belts should be changed every 2 years (in theory) but modern belts will last much longer. Not such a difficult job to do yourself with the right prep. How much history is there with the bike? If it’s been well looked after till now that’s worth quite a bit over an unknown quantity. Ask if the reg/rec has been changed recently-ish, also whether it’s running original expansion tank. Neither deal breakers but OE of both are failure points. Upgraded replacements are a big plus. Also resprayed clutch / water pump covers wouldn’t bother me at all. Doesn’t mean it’s been down the road, the OE paint on these was terrible so consider the respray an act of active maintenance. Without being rude, is it possible to ask what the seller is asking for it? If it is, as you say fair, then this seems like an honest bike and I’d go for it.
These are not the fairing decals of a model year 1998 916. Here’s what 1998 bikes look like: No more « Cagiva Era » decal schemes. Could it be a m.y. 1997 that was first registered in early 1998? If the sticker on the frame says 1998, then it’s definitely not the original fairings paint/decal scheme.
Now, here are the questions you need to ask. Is the Owners Manual and the complete OEM tool kit included? Are OEM parts included (where replaced by aftermarket items)? Are there complete Ducati Maintenance completion records? Has the rear wheel spindle been inspected? 1994-1998 models were recalled so Ducati could inspect for possible cracks present on the rear wheel spindle. The concern was that this condition could cause the spindle to fail, causing a loss of control of the motorcycle and increasing the risk of a crash. Ducati sent ultrasonic inspection equipment to their dealers who were authorized to replace spindles if necessary. Has the charging system wiring been inspected and replaced? The wiring and in-line connectors between the stator and the regulator/rectifier (on all model years) overheat because they have to pass over 30 amps continuously. The solution is to replace the wires with a larger gauge and eliminate the in-line connectors. Do it before you have problems. When were the cam timing belts last replaced? It's critical that the cam belts be replaced, usually every 12,000 miles, to avoid potentially catastrophic engine damage. Ducati uses smaller diameter pulleys that cause the belt to turn tighter corners than the larger pulleys used in automobile engines. Ducati also uses a small diameter back-side belt-tensioning idler pulley arrangement that causes the belt to flex back in the opposite direction on each revolution. This back-and-forth belt flexing promotes premature fatigue failure. The original drive belt material often failed before the first recommended 6,000 mile replacement interval so Ducati now uses a Kevlar fiber reinforced belt. A belt failure often results in a catastrophic collision between the piston and valves. Have the fuel lines been replaced? Ducati fuel injection uses a high pressure fuel pump and in-tank fuel line failures are common if the recommendation to replace fuel hoses every two years is not followed. When was the fuel filter last replaced? A clogged fuel filter causes the high pressure fuel pump to draw much higher currents that are prime contributors to regulator failures. Further, a partially clogged fuel filter will disrupt fuel flow, cause bad throttle response, and can lean out the motor on the fuel injected models. In particular, it will present excessive back pressure to the fuel pump which increases electrical current demands thereby making the charging system work harder which commonly leads to a regulator/rectifier failure. Has the connection to the starter motor been inspected? The rubber boot that covers the connection to the starter motor catches and holds water that corrodes the terminal making it crank hard or fail to start. Fill the boot with dielectric grease and check it seasonally. Were the cams pulled at the last valve clearance check to inspect for flaking chrome plating? Do not ignore this issue! The consequences can be very expensive. This is a major unresolved design problem that affects all model years. The chrome plating on the rocker arms flake off and damage the cam lobes. A time-consuming removal of the camshafts is mandatory to determine the full extent of the condition of the rocker arms so ANY PURCHASE SHOULD BE PREDICATED ON AN ACCEPTABLE INSPECTION. Depending on the circumstances, Ducati may elect to replace defective parts on out-of-warranty bikes but the owner will have to pay the labor costs. Common Problems The following are some design deficiencies and common problems that you should also be aware of: In-Line Fuses There's been reports of corrosion developing at connections at in-line fuses causing a high resistance to develop that overheats the wiring and fuse holder causing a partial meltdown and/or loss of continuity. The engine management relay fuses (one 15A, one 15A and one 20A, or one 5A and one 20A fuse depending on the model and year) located underneath the seat. Failure can cause your bike to stop running without warning. A clue is that the fuel pump will not run when you turn on the ignition and toggle the handlebar switch to RUN. The 30A fuse (or 40A on later models) between the regulator/rectifier and the battery. Failure can prevent charging and eventually drain the battery during a long ride. A clue is that the charge warning light (pre-1999 models) will come on. Starter Relay Connection The electrical connector that goes to the starter relay is often a poor fit and can cause inability to start for no apparent reason. Zip-tie it tight. Coolant Expansion Tank The tank sees repeated thermal cycling and it cracks at a high stress point (underneath the ignition key) where the shape abruptly transitions from horizontal to vertical. So watch for small coolant droplets on the inside of your windscreen. Check that your dealer keeps replacements in stock or pick up a spare on eBay. When you replace it, make sure that the mounting holes allow for some thermal expansion. Flywheel Retaining Nut Problems develop when this retaining nut is removed. They may loosen and cause extensive damage and they are difficult to re-install reliably. Cush Drive These occasionally are reported to back-out and cause damage to the swingarm. Crankshaft Oil Galley Plug Check your oil screen at each oil change for aluminum fingernail clipping size particles. Early bikes had problems with this plug backing-out. If not caught in time, the plug will come out and you'll get a catastrophic loss of lubrication. In 2001, the aluminum oil gallery plug was replaced with a steel plug. Oil Pressure Sending Unit These parts are unreliable. However, if your oil pressure light comes on don't run the engine until you diagnose the problem. Low Fuel Sending Unit This part is unreliable. Get in the habit of resetting your odometer when refueling. Watch your reservoir fluid level. There are after-market replacements for the stock unit that are more reliable. Also, 2001 models were recalled for attention to a clutch slave cylinder problem. These slave cylinders would hydraulically lock the clutch if they leaked. Ducati has stocked its dealers with replacement cylinders.
Thanks - Yes.. looking at the spec sheet it is probably a MY 97' registered in 98'...not that it makes much difference to me .
Still worth checking that frame sticker (under the saddle, if I remember correctly) for model year info.
V helpful thread and definitely worth being aware of all of these issues. Equally worth being aware that only the very most expensive/sorted bikes on the market will answer "yes, fine/checked" to everything in the list above. Don't be a hostage to it or you'll never buy anything!
Congrats! Don't hold back on those pics. You won't regret it, they're fantastic to ride (if yours isn't, take it to Simon at Mint Customs), fantastic to work on and just all round mega satisfying to own.
Considering you're a yellow duc maniac, I'm picturing you purchasing this bike in an unenthusiastic manner. Congrats on the purchase, as mentioned they're extremely easy to work on (a joy, even), parts are still readily available, and the sound of a old desmoquattro winding up on a back road is pure sex.
