Hi All, So I just sold my 1260PP. Mostly because I was a tiny bit disappointed with it compared to my original 2010 1200S which I've still got! I swear, even with 40K miles on her, the old bugger is faster!! That being said, the brakes on the 1260PP were significantly better. What can I do to my old 1200 to give me better braking bite and performance? Thanks in advance, Ken
IMO, it’s the cheap master cylinder on the 1st generation coupled with a poor excuse for a caliper. The 1260 was probably using a variant of the M50 caliper and m/c set up. I am using M4 calipers off a 1098R and billet Brembo race m/c on my track prepared 2010 Multistrada and that set up is on a par with the Brembo Stylema set up on my Panigale V4 S, not as refined but awesome braking power. The routing of the pipework from the m/c to ABS pump and ABS pump to caliper isn’t ideal as the ABS pump is below the m/c. I added a bleed nipple to the ABS pump banjo from the m/c and it made bleeding so much easier. Andy
Wow, thanks Andy. I was hoping you'd just say it needed Braided lines or something!! Do I remember correctly that you're the bloke that had his 2010 engine rebuilt?
My 2012, 1st gen Multistrada. Just had a service today and realised it’s 2 years since the rebuild and I’ve done 13,000 miles. Happy I made the right decision to rebuild and not buy something newer. Most of the Multistrada brake line is metal tube so replacing isn’t a quick or easy job. The track bike, I just stripped the pipework out, had to leave the ABS pump in and had made to measure lines fitted. Andy
Yeah, thanks, I found the link for the rebuild and am refreshing my memory. Thinking about going the same route...Bike will be coming up for 45K mile Belt service and wondering if that's a good time to bite the bullet!
Just remember, I allowed myself to get carried away If your valve guides need replacing, you might get a similar deal to me where a new head (including guides) cost less than buying 4 replacement guides. Andy
Also consider better discs, the OE are poor and if you are getting a better master cylinder you should look at discs and pads too. Makes a huge difference.
Hi. OK. Thanks. Forgive my ignorance but does that mean I'd need the 1260 calipers too or would it need a new fork lower or some kind of spacers to accommodate the larger discs?
I switched my 2013 to 330mm Series Oro disks and M4 calipers with a spacer. To make the calipers fit you may need slightly different angles on the banjos as per: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/brembo-brake-upgrade-with-ohlins.29491/page-4 Road and Race performance sell a disc kit which comprises of :78B408A4 x 2 & BFK010/2 I didn't remove ABS and kept the same master cylinder. It perhaps is slightly lighter/longer pull than if I'd gone with another setup but it stops the bike good and doesn't seem to affect the ABS. I got my lines made by Hel, I had no routing issues if you keep the ABS unit present. The larger disks do make it a pain to change the wheels, pads as there is much less space to get the calipers off the bike.
I switched to Serie Oro discs and red pads too. Definite improvement on my 1200 DVT. Even the rear brake works now. Bleed it regularly.
I put those on too, huge improvement, especially on repeat braking form high speed, no more fade. I must have been the only MTS owner whose back brake wasn’t tragic?
Yes. I tried the expensive Castrol brake fluid, before long it was rubbish again. Try as I did I only used half the container, I filled my bike, and friends bikes. Still didn’t use it all. Apparently a year later it’s no good, so effectively doubled the price of the fluid. Next I installed the Serie Oro discs and uprated pads. Once I’d put in new fluid, £6/bottle, bled it, adjusted it and bedded in the pads. It works. Plan is to bleed the rear every few months. At £5-6 a bottle who cares. Only question left to resolve is reverse bleeding or a non return bleed valve. Veering towards the non return bleed valve because it will make it easier. Result. Putting your foot on the rear foot brake lever actually slows the bike noticeably.
I also have the red pads. My rear brake started out good for probably the first 10k, then it went though a bad period where I pretty much gave up on it (tried all the bleeding methods) even tried the billet caliper (which split at the bleed nipple eventually). I went back to stock and someone different bled the system and it's been very well behaved since. Can only guess some air got stuck somewhere and couldn't escape for a long time.
