Gaz, I haven't fitted these covers on mine on the bottom Yoke so can't help you. You could always just take it off? There's no three bond between head and barrel. That belt cover I think is no longer available. I got one recently and it was the same as yours. They are used on many different models I understand Ian
Thanks for replies. OK will just fit this belt cover. Might try and cut top lip from seal see what that is like failing that trim all the seal / rubber off. The seal is on a thin metal disc under the bearing don't want to remove bearing again that one is a bit of a pig to get off. Cheers Gaz
Ended up cutting top lip off seal, and it does not bind up as much, alot happier with feel when adjusting and fork side to side movement. Seen other seals that are not as thick - may be next time. Cheers Gaz.
Well for the first time in 10 years it looks like bike not a box of bits. Not surprisingly I now have to face my worst fear - the wiring and cable routing. I do have some photos and diagrams. Any other tip and trick welcome. Is there a concensus of opinion on the reassembly order regarding carbs, carb cables and hoses, wiring loom, etc. I know I got a bit exited with the front end and missed the handle bars - slow down boy and make some space. Cheers Gaz.
When refitting the throttle cables, I didn't bother with the 'push' cable - the thinking being that Amals, Delortos, etc work perfectly well without them (is push/pull just a US requirement?). Made life a lot easier.
Hejira858 Thanks, I did wonder about that, there seems to be a fair amount of tension to return. P.S. I did send you a PM - did you get it. Cheers Gaz
The front wiring loom went back OK, it followed the same bends in wire. Is connector marked "A" the side stand switch. Oh and the connector just above the number 2 Sorry forgot to attach photo. Cheers Gaz
Not really convinced about the earth to the reg/rec with the rubber well nuts isolating the frame. I thought I had seen somewhere running another earth. Any thoughts. Cheers Gaz.
Still a bit unsure of this Reg/Rec connection. See diagram below. To me and I am no Electrician - the connection at 8 (Reg/Rec) is not earthed straight to frame, if it were it would have an earth symbol. Rather (and again to me) the wire goes back to battery terminal and earths the Reg/Rec from there. Therefore there its ok to install over rubber wellnut (ie isolating it from frame). Has this mod regarding earthing come in a knee jerk reaction to a poorly performing Reg/Rec. Any more comments appreciated. Cheers Gaz
My 94 900ss which I’ve just got has the r/r bolted direct to the frame with an earth wire plus a big metal washer and no rubber wellnuts, in your post 28 the diagram has an earth symbol which is the same as mine, I might not be much help but that is how mine is. Edit, it was in the Haynes manual that mentioned Ducati changed to a metal washer
Roadtrip, Thanks My post 28. This was a diagram marked up to make sense of the wiring by myself and at a time where I thought this was an earth position, looking at my post 32 and the diagram I am not so sure now. It's just I don't really want to start grinding paint off the frame. Cheers Gaz
Gaz, runa wire from the body of the rectifier to one of the screws ino the front subframe. The screw will earth it and there's no need to grind off any paint anywhere else. I rode years ago without this essential earth and ended up broken down with no charge in the Scottish borders. I diagnosed it myself in the end. The AA man gave me a bit of wire to sort it and jumped me back on the road again.
Desmo, I think that's a good option I thought I saw it somewhere on the USA Ducati sites but can't find it now. Handle bars dry blasted - not too aggressive, found a nice satin black that went on pretty good (also did headlight frame with it - well I thinks it Ok) Cheers Gaz
I had some Simonize Tough Black which on test wasn't that tough it marked really easily, I had had it a while though. Also I had a go with some satin black UPOL and it was terrible. I don't know if I had a duff can but it seemed to come out all fluffy. I gave it a good shake and slightly heated it in warm water but it was garbage, the UPOL etch primer was good though. Also used a Hycote can of Panel Prep Degreaser to try and keep everything clean - metal coat hangers and a washing line and you're away. Cheers Gaz
I hope I have not messed up. Tinkering this afternoon I thought I would check the gears, I am sure I did it before I re assembled engine. I installed the neutral switch and attached meter which was on continuity for when lug moved round on the selector barrel and depressed switch. I am having trouble rotating the selector Drum. I think I got it 4 clicks round, presumed 6 is what I am after, then it felt like it was stuck. Just wondering if this is normal at this stage of assembly, would it be better with alternator casing on to support other side of selector shaft. Will it be better with Clutch assembled? Or better with some oil splashed around in there. Could I have assembled the selector Drum wrong? or is there only one way? Cheers Gaz
Does it shift when you wiggle the back tyre if its connected? Sometimes it just needs a little help as the gears can be a little 'sticky' when stationary. Have you set the adjuster correctly? I've had similar, and I had to split the cases, as the forks weren't in right.....
