1200 S Looking For A M48 Bi-hex Impact Socket

Discussion in 'Monster' started by Wally, Aug 8, 2022.

  1. Hi all, I am looking for a M48 bi-hex impact socket so I can use an impact wrench to whipp off the rear wheel of my monster. I used to use a breaker bar while holding a wheel spoke but, due to advancing decrepitude, I have knackered tendons in my left wrist so can't manage that anymore. The socket I've been using is alloy and I have a feeling that an impact wrench will trash it.

    I've trawled the web and most manufacturers I've come across seem to jump from M46 to M50. Does anyone know where I can source one?
     
  2. Just doing a sanity check here... 48mm... is that the thread or the hex? Your Monster is a 2015 1200S, but with a stripe paint job... is that correct? Not that I own or have great knowledge of the model, aside from a test ride on a 1200s a few years back. I'm sure that the greater knowledge on here will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that will require the 55mm socket available from the likes of Laser.

    SpeedyMoto, who also do Ducati wheel sockets, list this one that specifically mentions the 2015 Monster 1200s as compatible. Also has the Multistrada 1260s on the same listing and I know from first-hand experience that the above Laser socket works a treat with that.
     
    #2 Bumpkin, Aug 8, 2022
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2022
  3. Thanks Bumpkin, I do kindred have the 1200S Stripe. The M48 came from the service manual and may well be the thread size.
    The Speedymoto one looks very like the one I have, only it’s stainless steel rather than alloy.
     
  4. If it’s a 2015 Monster with the single sided swinging arm you definitely need a 55mm socket.
    For an easier life you should also get an impact driver. Either the Clarke one from Machine Mart or Lidl’s impact driver when they’re stocking them.

    I think you’ll find this is the general consensus of opinion around here.
     
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  5. I can confirm that the Laser one is suitable for use with a rattle gun. I have both the mains powered Clarke one as well as a cordless one from Lidl.
     
  6. Clarke one +1. Cheap and does the job.
     
  7. I agree but with an en-block garage without power the Lidl cordless one is far more convenient... And was the same price give or take.
     
  8. Clarke mains power on order, I went for the 1100, 3/4” to 1/2” adapter on order and laser socket on order.

    Thanks for your help. :upyeah:
     
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  9. M48 is the thread size. You need 55mm bihex socket. I would go for an impact rated Cr-Mo steel version of the tool. Dont buy the aluminum crap.

    You can get a nice set like this for all Ducati wheels,

    https://www.bgstechnic.com/en/catalog/category/list/id/415793/browseMode/dataset/pId/459402/page/18

    or just the tool you need for M1200s front and rear all in one,

    https://www.bgstechnic.com/en/catalog/category/list/id/415793/browseMode/dataset/pId/476515/page/20

    I believe Laser Tools also making the same tool.
     
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  10. I agree re. not bothering with an aluminium rear wheel socket. However, that set says "aluminium alloy steel, anodised"...

    The Laser one, quite possibly the same manufacturer as the 2nd one you linked to, is the one to go for IMHO.
     
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  11. Thanks, I ordered the laser impact socket. It does both rear and front.
     
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  12. Once you have used both it and the impact driver you'll wonder why you didn't get one years ago...

    I got a driver & socket for the front sprocket on the V-Raptor and it's now just a 2 second braaaappp of the gun & sorted.
     
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  13. Sounds good. :upyeah: I've nearly scrubbed the rear tyre so will find out fairly soon. I still need to use a torque bar to put it back on but torquing it up always seemed easier than loosening it off. Well ... not any more I guess. :)
     
  14. I took the rear wheel off today and I was amazed and delighted by just how quick and easy it was. As you said, braaappp, and that's it. I thought I might get a big torque reaction through the driver but no, nothing. Previously, removing the rear wheel was a job that I faced with a sort of mild dread. Now it's a breeze. :grinning:
     
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  15. Hurrah! :party:
     
  16. Ah but when you put it back on did you, or will you, torque it up to 230 Newtons?
     
  17. I torque mine. Because I paid good money for that damned torque wrench and im going to use it. It is used for this and this alone.

    (Disclaimer: Sometimes I dont)
     
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  18. Is it me or are manufacturer recommending torque settings for wheel nuts just crazy high? 230 Newtons is 169 ft/lb :astonished:

    Admittedly for a single sider I might torque it correctly but on a two sided axle, and a front wheel, I'll do it up to either the point I think we are going to strip the thread or I let out a little uncontrolled fart... it's me age : unamused:
     
  19. 230Nm is just the rear SSSA axle nuts. Two sided rear, and front, axles are tightened to a more modest torque depending on model.
     
  20. I did, it’s a little awkward but manageable. I have a 60-300 Nm torque wrench and I wore a wrist brace on my knackered left wrist. I hold a spoke to stop the wheel turning, using a cloth to make it hurt less, and just pull on the torque until it clicks. I was worried about my wrist but the brace seems to have protected it. Then a lie down for a while and it’s job done.
     
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